Surrounded by Boobies

. . .of the avian variety! Sitting in the cockpit yesterday, brown boobies were diving very close to the boat - actually splashing us with water, as they came up with fish in their mouths. These are large birds with yellow feet and are very good fishermen. They kept diving under our boat - and when we got in the water - we understood why. There were hundreds and hundreds of fish hiding under the boat. They were in the shadow of the hull and it looked like a mirror image of the boat - only made out of small silvery fish. We waited for something big to come up from the bottom with its mouth open!

The birds are great to watch. The boobies get fish, the frigates chase other birds with fish (thus their reputation as pirates of the sky) and they fight - frigate on frigate - with great flying maneuvers.

When Michael dove to check the anchor - to make sure it was holding - he saw a turtle under the chain. He worried that the turtle was stuck - but as he watched - the critter was just taking a brief snooze and then worked his way from under the chain. Michael's always glad to help anyone take a nap (remember he is President and Founder of "Napping for Peace.")

As we swam around, we also a big black mark on the side of the hull. We realized we had been "inked" by a squid. It probably hit the hull when we were making the crossing and it "graffiti-ed" our hull! There's probably a gang of squid out their tagging boats!

The beach is beautiful that we are anchored near. We went ashore and walked the softest white sand we'd seen to date. On the lee side of the island is this beautiful calm water and white, soft sand. Look over the small crest of land and you see crashing waves against rock. It is quite a study in contrasts in one small strip of land. Calm on the lee side; rocky and wild on the windward side.

There are lots of fishing boats that come into this island group and anchor before they head out again. Last night a group of fishermen went to shore and started shooting at something - luckily not us. Hmmmm..

Yesterday, a couple from a one of the French boats swam over to us and asked if we were heading to Margarita and wanted to join them the next day for the trip. Two boats were heading out and we were welcome to come along. We are not heading to Isla Margarita this time - so we thanked them and passed. The Guardacosta also came by and asked if cleared in and with our borderline Spanish and their borderline English - I think we got across that we did check into the station on "lunes" (Monday) and would be leaving for Blanquilla when the weather was right. He informed us we must clear into Margarita. There is great confusion in these islands - and much argument amongst cruising boats - about what you need to have (Venezuelan Visa or not) and where you can and cannot go. Everyone you ask has a different answer. The men at the station on Monday, told Michael going to Blanquilla was fine and that we could stay here for two days - but if the weather was bad - "no problemo" about staying longer. The Venezuelan embassy in Grenada also was clear in telling us that the Visa we got would allow us to pass through the out islands without having to clear into Margarita. Hard to get clarity - and we always try to do the right thing when it comes to clearing in and out of the countries that we have the privilege of visiting.

Weather has taken a turn - it is really windy and grey out there. We had some rain overnight. We can't stay here to long - but it won't be tonight that we leave. Perhaps tomorrow or Friday.

In Venezuelan Waters

A new flag is flying on Astarte - the Venezuelan flag was raised as we entered the waters off Los Testigos. Los Testigos means "The Witnesses" - not testicles as an Aussie boat captain kept calling them. They are a beautiful group of islands that have two small villages where the few residents are fishermen. There's Isla Iguana, Isla Cabra (goat island), Isla Tostigos Pequena and Isla Testigo Grande and few smaller islets.

We left Grenada's Prickly Bay on Monday evening at sunset for the 90 mile run to the west. We flew the full genoa (headsail) and had an easterly wind about 15-18 knots. Seas were about 5 feet from behind - so the following seas made for a bit of a lumpy ride. We slowed down at one point so we wouldn't arrive before good daylight.

As we closed in on the islands (about 0700) we looked back and saw "fish on!" It was a nice blackfin tuna (though when we get pictures up - we'll get a confirmation from our readers who are fisheries experts). It was a nice size, we got it in and Michael filleted it. A special gift for that evening's meal after an all night sail! We also were really treated with a huge school of dolphins playing with Astarte for a long time - they were all sizes and very playful - leaping out of the water, doing back flips, and just swimming in our wake. They were fun to watch. The islands also have a huge collection of sea birds - lots of frigates, boobies, shearwaters, and terns. It was a great end to a good overnight trip - filled with boats crossing, good stars, an almost full moon and one tack!.

We chose to enter through the northern entrance of the islands to check out a few of the anchorages. Arriving into the cut at 0930, we first went to "check in" with the "Guardacosta" station in Isla Iguana. We had to anchor off the station in really rough water and heavy winds - but managed to actually get the dinghy off the deck and Michael to shore to do the clearing in process. It was a wet and lumpy ride to the dock - and a good climb up the hill for him. After a night of little to no sleep - this can often be challenging. This is not an official clearance port for Venezuela - but you are required to check in with the local Coast Guard station. They will "allow" you to stay in the islands for 48 hours. However, a small bottle of rum will often extend your stay! Michael managed to communicate with his limited Spanish and the Guardacosta's limited English. He had prepared papers with crew list, equipment and boat information in Spanish which made the visit much easier. We'll be here a few days - until the next weather window to run up to La Blanquilla.

Several other boats are anchored with us off this picture perfect beach - sandy with palm trees and turquoise water. The beach is "Playa Real" (Royal Beach) and it is between the two Tesigos (Pequena and Grande). There boats from France, Switzerland, St. Vincent's and England here. We are the only US flagged boat.
There are many fishing boats around - anchored off the bays on either side of this beach. There are two varieties of boats - larger boats that are open but covered and look to have crews of about six to nine people. Then there are the open "pangas" that have high narrow bows and are very stable. All are made of wood. The fishermen seem pretty friendly - this is where we wished we were fluent in Spanish. We continue our on-board lessons along with the added value of "immersion."

Today - we'll explore (Michael sees hills that must be conquered!) and perhaps even some snorkeling after hiking.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

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The Bus Station

In Grenada, they name their busses. The local busses, which are minivans that run up and down routes in a very efficient manner, are named by their owners. The names are everything from virtues like “Honesty” or “Love” to ego-centric names like “Special,” “Just Amazin’”or “Highly Desired;” to the violent/edgy names like “Hollow Point,” “Point Blank,” or “Gun Shot.” The names are scrawled in various “designer” fonts across the top front window. We’ve been collecting names have a list of about 40 names. Here’s a list of a few: “Cutie,” “Mileage,” “Sellout,” “Platinum,” Hypnotic,” “Drama,” “Deportee,” “Emperor,” “Strict Warning,” “Cool as Ice,” “De White Eagle,” “No Fear,” “Extreme,” “Shaggy,” “Play Boyz,” “Assassin,” “Bawl & Beg,” “End Out,” “No Comment,” “Exposed,” “Mad Out,” “BluSteel,” “Tuff,” “Dapper,” “Famous for Life,” “Oil Spill,” and our favorite – “Obama.” We wonder what goes into picking the name. It’s one of our memories from 2001 when we hopped in a bus named “Death” for a wild ride. Haven’t seen “Death” on the streets this time – hope he didn’t meet his namesake. It is fun to start recognizing the busses you’ve been in.

Self Esteem Issues?

The busses have routes, but they’ll also go “off route” on request (for a few extra ECs) – or sometimes “just because.” The other day we asked to be let off near the IGA grocery store – and they drove us right to the front door of the store. They “solicit” riders as they drive up and down the streets. There is the driver who’ll honk a very melodic sounding horn, a conductor who’ll yell out if you want a ride or simply bang on the side of the door. Then they’ll stop anywhere on the street and open the door for you to jump in. It doesn’t matter if there are already 15 people in – there’s always room for one more (see Frank’s guest blog). The conductors can be mellow or aggressive – many are very helpful and friendly with good info (for example – Michael asked the other day: “where’s the cheapest place to buy a case of beer?? “And the conductor took a survey in the bus and offered suggestions.) On slow days, they’ll drive off route and seek out riders. All busses double as cabs – so you have to be careful. Often they’ll ask if you want a cab – and you say “no,” they’ll then ask – “a bus?” and you get in. The price is $2.50 EC for a bus ride (much more for a cab)– so that’s under a buck US for a ride. You never have to wait very long for a bus along the main routes.

Yesterday we rode the bus into town, walked a fair way and then picked up a bus to a local roti stand then walked to Prickly Bay. Today, more projects as we prepare to break away from Grenada.

Whoo-Hoo - We Won!

Last night at Prickly Bay Marina there was an event hosted by the Grenada Marine Association. They asked boaters to fill out a survey (NOT done by Frank N. Magid Associates) and in order to get people to actually fill it out – they bribed us with prizes. The top prize was a $100 gift certificate to Island Water World (a chandlery similar to West Marine). And they drew our boat name as the winner. The good news – we won. The bad news it was in EC dollars not US dollars. But hey- that’s about $37 – we haven’t made that much money since last year. We will spend it wisely (of course we probably spent more than that on beer last night at the event – and feeling it this morning).

It was a fun event- though always dangerous when our new friends (who love to party) are around. Jack, our St. Petersburg friend aboard Anthem also arrived in Prickly Bay – so that always means trouble. He did catch a tuna and invited us for dinner tonight (but then remembered it was burger night on Wednesday – so changed his mind). Hopefully the fish will still be safe to eat by Thursday.

The last few days have been very busy onboard. Michael went up the mast to check things out (meaning Barbara had to get him up there – luckily he’s getting quite thin!). He also installed a new light on the aft deck – for safety as well as ease of getting on and off the boat after dark. We also changed the headsail sheets; cleaned out and reorganized the lazarettes; both headsail and mainsail furlers have been cleaned and checked; and lots of little projects cleaning, checking and organizing.

Now we watch the weather for an opportunity to move on to Venezuela’s out islands. (Though no complaints after hearing what Mark N. is getting in the Bering Sea-he wins the worst weather competition.)

Today – more errands. We need to sweat a lot today!!!

Fireworks - Man-Made and Mother Nature's

Here we are on the beautiful island of Grenada – and for the 4th of July holiday– we still got to enjoy fireworks. On July 3, there was a light show by Mother Nature – lightning in the distance lighting up the clouds and night skies. Then about 2100, big bangs and a lovely fireworks display exploded overhead. Boats cheered when they were over. My nephews Chris and Nate remembered that last year they were aboard Astarte in the Manatee River where we saw displays from about 19 locations!

On the fourth, we went into town to hit the big vegetable market. Farmers come from around the countryside to bring in their fruits and veggies to sell along the streets of downtown St. Georges. This, along with the daily vegetable market, which is about two blocks square, offers a great selection. We stocked up.

We then walked and walked and walked (in the heat of the day of course!). We went to the boat store to pick up new sheets (not for your bed- but the lines (ropes) that control the sails). Michael then had to haul 108 feet of line around as we continued our in-town adventures. We also were in search of small screws to fix the lid of the refrigerator - hitting every hardware store in St. Georges. We were getting things accomplished as well as killing time until we met friends Trish and Robert from Bristol Rose for lunch. We even stopped and watched a cricket match for a bit. All dressed in their white outfits, its fun to watch – though the stands were a bit far from the action.

Waiting near the bus terminal, we met our friends whom we hadn’t seen since Culebra (Puerto Rico) and enjoyed catching up on their adventures over a roti lunch. After that, we did a bit more grocery shopping (more juice for the new secret recipe “Astarte Rum Punch”). Then we caught a local bus for the trip home. (Note to Frank: would you believe we were the only ones on the bus for a bit of the time and there were no more than four people at any time on the ride back!)

Today some boat projects, cleaning and cooking. We’ve invited some folks aboard from the neighboring boats for drinks, desserts and dominos (or some other game).

Tropical Waves Hitting Grenada

It’s been a stormy Friday in Prickly Bay and throughout the southeastern Caribbean. A series of tropical waves are coming through providing rain, wind, swells and “excuses” to those outside projects that need to get done. We have a headsail to get back up – but it’s too windy. We have a new light to install to light the back deck – but it’s too wet. We need to get Hawk up the mast – but it’s too rolly. So we’ve stayed below organizing, changing filters, and making lists of provisions and projects.

This morning we did sneak out in the dinghy to visit Maxine and Mark aboard Blue Beyond – a 54 foot Moody. They had us over for coffee and to talk about roller furling the main (they have a ton of experience and the same system we have – albeit it much larger and with electric winches!). What a beautiful boat Similar in many ways to our “little” Moody – just stretched out. The woodwork on their boat is magnificent as are all the little “extras” like window coverings, visibility from the main salon etc. They are great people. Lots of experience (an Atlantic crossing and much more) and funny stories – well told. It was a fun break in the dreary morning weather.

Tomorrow – Saturday (July 4) we’ll head into town for some veggie market shopping and hopefully will meet up with friends from Bristol Rose – Trish and Robert – who we haven’t seen since Culebra! That’s the fun of cruising – you meet new people, run into people you met islands ago and you know you’ll continue to meet other new folks as you move along.

Happy 4th of July weekend to all.

Canada Day Celebration

July 1 was Canada Day and, in honor of all our Canadian friends – we celebrated. (Jim – Hawk even wore his BSI hat!) We bussed over to Clark’s Court Marina for a cool sea birds presentation by some folks who are doing research on sea birds in the islands. After that, we stayed for “hamburger night – with bacon (to celebrate Canada Day). Folks came dressed in red and white and there were some interesting outfits.

Canadian Winners!

Maxi and Michael

One of our new pals, Maxi – won for her outfit – complete with red sparkly shoes. She’s a Brit – so everyone got into the act – Canadians, those whose country touches Canada, any country who likes the queen etc. We were hanging out with a couple of British couples – and they were fun.

After a night of burgers, beers and laughs, we headed back in the bus. It felt like grade school again – as folks started to sing songs (a few randy British songs) and some Beatles. Then, the bus (named King Elvis) put on – Elvis music. Perfect! Got back and had a “final final” at “De Big Fish” and headed back to Astarte. We thought it was midnight – but it was only 2100 (9 pm) – but we started the adventure at 1500 (3 pm). This was followed by the nightly routine of outboard and dinghy being put on deck.

Today (July 2), we had a full schedule of work on Astarte. It started with heading into the Venezuelan embassy to get a visa for visiting the out islands. Only the captain needs one. We took a local bus and actually found the embassy. Michael filled out the paperwork, handed over two passport photos (two from eight years ago that we took to get our Venezuelan visas back then – but Michael hasn’t changed that much and it saved some boat dollars). Then we walked to a bank to deposit the fee for the visa. This was quite a hike (thought it was a lot shorter than it turned out). Did that and caught a bus back to the “lagoon” for some boat parts shopping at Island Water World. Then a “roti” lunch (yum) and back to the embassy.

Then we got back via another bus; picked up the repaired sail; dinghied back to Astarte and started on more projects. Michael emptied out the lazarette so he could check out the steering – tweaked a few things and re-loaded the locker. Then he cleaned out his engine room – which – being a British engine – means lots of leaked oil. It was a mess. Barbara cleaned the waterline on the boat (at least she got to be in the water).

It was a tiring day – but we’re trying to get everything ready for the next islands – where there are little to no resources for repairs. There may be a weather window early next week and we’d like to be prepared to take it.

Tomorrow morning, we’ve been invited aboard a Moody 54 by the Brits Mark and Maxi. Looking forward to seeing this beautiful boat.