FIRST – NEW PHOTOS labeled Bora Bora 1
Yesterday, we took a "walkabout" on Bora Bora. We went the opposite way from town (the way we had previously walked). We went past the Bora Bora Yacht Club and stopped in to check it out. It is a well-known spot amongst cruising sailboats and quite nice. We ran into some friends and then continued to hike. We went along Fannui Bay which is a large protected bay surrounded by pretty hills. On the way back, a woman on a bicycle stopped us and suggested we hike up to see the cannons (this was done in Tahitian, French, English and charades). She sort of described the turn-off to get to these World War II US cannons. As we got to this point, there was a man clearing some brush and Michael asked him about the cannons (again in Tahitian/French/English/charades) he told us where to head. So we did! It was quite a hike up a hill, around a few bends and then into the mud. And it was muddy. Ankle deep in places. We never did see the cannons – it was getting late, the bugs were coming out, the mud was getting thicker and we needed a beer! So we retraced our steps (now with very muddy shoes) and made our way back down the hill and back to Mai Kai Yacht Club. There we had a few happy hour beers. Mai Kai is a very nice place with extremely friendly people and a very nice restaurant. They had live local music that night.
This morning we left our mooring ball behind at the Mai Kai Yacht Club to explore the other side of Bora Bora. This meant an interesting motor in a narrow channel close to the main island. Bora Bora is a true atoll with motus and reef surrounding an inner lagoon. We are now anchored behind one of the motus in 10 feet of gin clear water over a nice sandy bottom. There are a few bommies around – but they are easy to see and avoid. The main island which has a few high points is very beautiful – especially from this vantage point with the turquoise water between us and the main island.
The wind is still blowing from the east 18 to 20 knots and though we are well protected from the swell and chop by the motu, it is still howling. We won't be able to get too far in the dinghy thanks to the wind (there is a place to swim with manta rays – but it is quite a dinghy ride away). We will be able to explore the coral heads near the boat and if we get ambitious enough, we'll launch the dinghy and head to the white sand beach of the motu. This morning it looked like a wedding on this beach with drummers helping provide the background music. With the swaying coconut palms, white beaches, turquoise water... it is very beautiful here – even with the howling wind.
Now the history lesson:
Bora Bora's interesting name goes back quite a long way. Before the arrival of the Europeans (and the missionaries) it was called Vavau and also, Mai Te Pora. The first means, "risen from darkness" and the other "created by the gods." Ancient legends claim this was one of the first islands to rise from the water, Over time, "Pora" or "Popora" became "Pora Pora" and then ultimately "Bora Bora."
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Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Bora Bora Bounce
The wind and waves have been treating us to a show in Bora Bora. We are tied to a mooring ball near the Mai Kai Yacht Club and our first night here was not very calm. The wind has picked up to more than 15 knots with higher gusts and it is coming from a little too far south so we are also getting a big chop in the anchorage. We put an additional line on the mooring ball (so we now have three) after hearing stories of people lines breaking and boats drifting away here.
We did manage to get the dinghy launched (that was exciting) and get to shore (that was wet) to walk around the town of Vaitape. We need to find propane (or cooking gas of some variety – every country has a different mix of butane, propane or a combo). Plus we are trying to get some New Zealand dollars for our next stops and we needed to get some baguettes and veggies. It is a nice little town with two big groceries, lots of roadside fruit and veggie stands, a nice chandlery with lots of boat parts, a hardware store, three banks and lots and lots of t-shirt shops and pearl/jewelry stores. We also needed to check in with the gendarmes for hours of checking out of here at the end of the week. The gas station has the cooking gas but eggs are hard to find. Baguettes were plentiful and we bought some nice little bananas from a fruit stand (and got a good deal – the woman threw in an extra bunch free!) and we bought tomatoes from the day care centers' stand!
We got back to the boat and bounced around all afternoon – not very comfortable. Our friends from Chapter Two came over to enjoy some of the mahi we caught and we had a lovely evening. She brought the "pudding" (that is the term for desserts) – a yummy apple crisp with custard – yummy! They will be heading off for the Cook Islands today – so it was nice to have a chance to visit with them before they leave. They also pointed out some good anchorages on Bora Bora. So after we get some fuel and baguettes (today or tomorrow) we'll probably be off as well – but just around the island.
Lots to see here – including (we hope) getting in the water with some manta rays!
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We did manage to get the dinghy launched (that was exciting) and get to shore (that was wet) to walk around the town of Vaitape. We need to find propane (or cooking gas of some variety – every country has a different mix of butane, propane or a combo). Plus we are trying to get some New Zealand dollars for our next stops and we needed to get some baguettes and veggies. It is a nice little town with two big groceries, lots of roadside fruit and veggie stands, a nice chandlery with lots of boat parts, a hardware store, three banks and lots and lots of t-shirt shops and pearl/jewelry stores. We also needed to check in with the gendarmes for hours of checking out of here at the end of the week. The gas station has the cooking gas but eggs are hard to find. Baguettes were plentiful and we bought some nice little bananas from a fruit stand (and got a good deal – the woman threw in an extra bunch free!) and we bought tomatoes from the day care centers' stand!
We got back to the boat and bounced around all afternoon – not very comfortable. Our friends from Chapter Two came over to enjoy some of the mahi we caught and we had a lovely evening. She brought the "pudding" (that is the term for desserts) – a yummy apple crisp with custard – yummy! They will be heading off for the Cook Islands today – so it was nice to have a chance to visit with them before they leave. They also pointed out some good anchorages on Bora Bora. So after we get some fuel and baguettes (today or tomorrow) we'll probably be off as well – but just around the island.
Lots to see here – including (we hope) getting in the water with some manta rays!
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Monday, July 23, 2012
Bora Bora IS our Backyard!
Today we decided to burn some fuel, drag some bait AND catch a fish when we left Taha'a headed to Bora Bora. We left the motu and sand bar near the coral garden of Tautau on Taha'a after a few days and nights there. We were boat bound for a few days when the wind was hooting – but we did manage to enjoy some social time with our friends on Ladybug and Charisma. Chris from Ladybug delivered chocolate chip cookies one afternoon and then we did a tasty potluck aboard Astarte on Saturday night. At that point, the sailboat Buena Vista had also joined the pack. So that turned into a very fun evening.
Earlier on Saturday we did get to snorkel an area called the "Coral Garden" and we can understand why it has that name. It is a beautiful nonstop garden of coral of many varieties. It's like a maze to snorkel through the shallow channels and see the amazing amount of colorful tropical fish. We saw lots of new fish varieties that we had to try to remember so we could identify. Unfortunately our underwater camera flooded...we'll see how Panasonic is with customer service! Barbara saw a lively red octopus and watched that for some time. It was very cool – so it was a coral garden and "Octopus Garden." Later in the afternoon we did a second swim and snorkel around a different area – that was filled with black urchins but fewer fish than the morning's adventure.
After a great water day and fun potluck evening, we left early for Bora Bora. We had to backtrack a bit to get to the cut in the reef to exit Taha'a. Then you have to go all the way around Bora Bora to get to its one and only north west entrance in the reef. Unfortunately it was a motoring day with not enough wind to keep a sail full. So we rationalized by calling it a fishing day...burning fuel and dragging bait! First, Michael got a barracuda on his line – a big one. We let that toothy guy go. Then a few hours later, Barbara snagged a very large bull Mahi Mahi. Yummy. After almost falling off the boat trying to get him in (and learning a lesson about the hand line wrapped around her fingers,ouch!), we got him aboard. Photoed, and filleted for dinner tonight and more dinners in the future. He was a nice size and will be enjoyed.
We entered the pass into Bora Bora and came around to the Mai Kai (not Mai Tai like the drink) yacht club where we grabbed a mooring ball. We have lots to get done here – so we thought this would be the safest and easiest place to leave the boat while in town on errands (propane, fuel, some groceries, gendarmes etc).
The afternoon turned a bit squally and rainy – but has settled down a bit. We are glad to be here.
We actually made it to Bora Bora- how cool is that??
Earlier on Saturday we did get to snorkel an area called the "Coral Garden" and we can understand why it has that name. It is a beautiful nonstop garden of coral of many varieties. It's like a maze to snorkel through the shallow channels and see the amazing amount of colorful tropical fish. We saw lots of new fish varieties that we had to try to remember so we could identify. Unfortunately our underwater camera flooded...we'll see how Panasonic is with customer service! Barbara saw a lively red octopus and watched that for some time. It was very cool – so it was a coral garden and "Octopus Garden." Later in the afternoon we did a second swim and snorkel around a different area – that was filled with black urchins but fewer fish than the morning's adventure.
After a great water day and fun potluck evening, we left early for Bora Bora. We had to backtrack a bit to get to the cut in the reef to exit Taha'a. Then you have to go all the way around Bora Bora to get to its one and only north west entrance in the reef. Unfortunately it was a motoring day with not enough wind to keep a sail full. So we rationalized by calling it a fishing day...burning fuel and dragging bait! First, Michael got a barracuda on his line – a big one. We let that toothy guy go. Then a few hours later, Barbara snagged a very large bull Mahi Mahi. Yummy. After almost falling off the boat trying to get him in (and learning a lesson about the hand line wrapped around her fingers,ouch!), we got him aboard. Photoed, and filleted for dinner tonight and more dinners in the future. He was a nice size and will be enjoyed.
We entered the pass into Bora Bora and came around to the Mai Kai (not Mai Tai like the drink) yacht club where we grabbed a mooring ball. We have lots to get done here – so we thought this would be the safest and easiest place to leave the boat while in town on errands (propane, fuel, some groceries, gendarmes etc).
The afternoon turned a bit squally and rainy – but has settled down a bit. We are glad to be here.
We actually made it to Bora Bora- how cool is that??
Friday, July 20, 2012
Thursday, July 19, 2012
“We Can See Bora Boar from our Backyard!”
Ann, from "Charisma" announced that on the radio as she anchored. And it is the best description of where we are now settled for a few nights (we hope).
We are now at the Island of Taha'a - another of the Society Group of French Polynesia. We had a great sail today from Ra'iatea to Taha'a. We sailed the entire way on the inside of the reef so the water was quite flat and yet the breeze was steady for a nice downwind sail or a reach at times. We did a steady 5 knots and got to see the island of Ra'iatea which is very beautiful with its hills, mountains, plateaus and valleys. There were a lot of bays as we sailed by the island – many of them went way back. Our friends tried to enter a few to anchor but found them all very deep – 80 feet or more of water.
We rounded the top of Ra'iatea and were between it and Taha'a. We then came up the leeward side of Taha'a and looked for a spot to anchor. The goal for tonight was to be "windless" as the last few nights on the windward side, inside the reef was noisy from the howling wind and crashing waves. So we were looking to sneak into one of the bays and find silence. Unfortunately, the first bay was packed with lots of charter boats on moorings. The second very deep bay was like being in a wind tunnel as the wind came down the mountain sides and swooped down the bay. We were getting gusts of more the 20 knots inside the bay! Plus, we found no depth less than 72 feet for anchoring. So we then headed to a place Ile Tautau – a motu off the northwestern tip of Taha'a. It has a spot called the Coral Garden and we are anchored in 20 feet of water looking at beautiful azure water, a few bommies and Bora Bora's mountains as the backdrop. There is a lovely resort of thatched roof huts sitting on stilts over the water and we are facing the island of Taha'a in the foreground. It is absolutely beautiful. We hope to get enough wind protection from Taha'a across the way and it should be okay unless the wind switches or really picks up. The shallow sand bar is behind us.
Tomorrow will be a water day (weather permitting). There is good snorkeling here and we hope the sun is out so we can see what are supposed to be quite healthy and varied corals and the fishes that hang out within them. Unfortunately this is a spot where lots of tour boats will come – so we'll try to get an early snorkel in to beat the crowds of bottom kickers and sand shufflers.
We are now at the Island of Taha'a - another of the Society Group of French Polynesia. We had a great sail today from Ra'iatea to Taha'a. We sailed the entire way on the inside of the reef so the water was quite flat and yet the breeze was steady for a nice downwind sail or a reach at times. We did a steady 5 knots and got to see the island of Ra'iatea which is very beautiful with its hills, mountains, plateaus and valleys. There were a lot of bays as we sailed by the island – many of them went way back. Our friends tried to enter a few to anchor but found them all very deep – 80 feet or more of water.
We rounded the top of Ra'iatea and were between it and Taha'a. We then came up the leeward side of Taha'a and looked for a spot to anchor. The goal for tonight was to be "windless" as the last few nights on the windward side, inside the reef was noisy from the howling wind and crashing waves. So we were looking to sneak into one of the bays and find silence. Unfortunately, the first bay was packed with lots of charter boats on moorings. The second very deep bay was like being in a wind tunnel as the wind came down the mountain sides and swooped down the bay. We were getting gusts of more the 20 knots inside the bay! Plus, we found no depth less than 72 feet for anchoring. So we then headed to a place Ile Tautau – a motu off the northwestern tip of Taha'a. It has a spot called the Coral Garden and we are anchored in 20 feet of water looking at beautiful azure water, a few bommies and Bora Bora's mountains as the backdrop. There is a lovely resort of thatched roof huts sitting on stilts over the water and we are facing the island of Taha'a in the foreground. It is absolutely beautiful. We hope to get enough wind protection from Taha'a across the way and it should be okay unless the wind switches or really picks up. The shallow sand bar is behind us.
Tomorrow will be a water day (weather permitting). There is good snorkeling here and we hope the sun is out so we can see what are supposed to be quite healthy and varied corals and the fishes that hang out within them. Unfortunately this is a spot where lots of tour boats will come – so we'll try to get an early snorkel in to beat the crowds of bottom kickers and sand shufflers.
Taputapuatea
The most spiritual site in the French Polynesian islands is the very large marae called Taputapuatea. Yesterday we walked all around this site that is set right in the water near the village of Opoa. It is spread out and you could get a sense of its importance by being there. They had very good information signage to help you understand the various elements and purposes of the different stone structures. We went ashore with our friends Chris and Rani from "Ladybug" and Ann and Bob from "Charisma." After the marae visit we found some great chocolate ice cream in one of the nearby food stands. That night there was a festival of dancing and singing at the site – so the food tikis were set up for dinner. We then walked up the road to a nearby church that we see from the water. It is now empty now and in need of a paint job when you see it up close, though it is picture perfect from the waterfront when the sun hits it against the background of hills.
We would have gone in for the festival but we would have to negotiate the dinghy over some shallow corals in the dark and wind and decided that wouldn't be prudent. So we went back out to our boats and gathered on "Charisma" for sundowners and snacks. And were serenaded by Chris and his ukelele.
Today, Thursday, we'll move to Taha'a going inside the reef along Ra'iatea to see more of this lovely island – dodging pearl farms along the way.
We would have gone in for the festival but we would have to negotiate the dinghy over some shallow corals in the dark and wind and decided that wouldn't be prudent. So we went back out to our boats and gathered on "Charisma" for sundowners and snacks. And were serenaded by Chris and his ukelele.
Today, Thursday, we'll move to Taha'a going inside the reef along Ra'iatea to see more of this lovely island – dodging pearl farms along the way.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Route to Ra'iatea
This French Polynesian Society Island is said to be the most steeped in mystery and spiritualism. We are now anchored inside the reef on the windward side of this steep island, just across from the ancient seat of Polynesian religion, Taputapuatea. This is considered by most to be the most important of all "marae" - with many legends attached to its beginnings. Stones from this particular temple are often used as a sacred stone to start marae on other islands and prove allegiance to the gods.
Ra'iatea also boasts the islands only navigable river and its signature flower, tiare apetahi can only be grown on the island's 800 meter high Temehani Plateau.
We left Huahine early this morning (Tuesday) to sail across to Ra'iatea after being "stuck" due to weather in the fare anchorage. We had a bit of excitement in the anchorage with lots of boats coming and going in the squally weather (sometimes not as intended), a few rescues and the "bad ferry." This is the ferry that would come in way too close to the anchored yachts and also push an incredible wake. You'd think he didn't like sailboats! Bob on "Charisma" nicknamed it the "Bad Ferry."
We celebrated the day after Bastille Day with a "Let them eat cake" party aboard Astarte with friends from Buena Vista, Ladybug, and Charisma. We then went in for a happy, fun-filled "happy hour" on shore and enjoyed meeting some new boats.
Now we are on a new island and have this anchorage to ourselves. We've dropped the hook in about 20 feet of water with a sandy bottom but are sitting over a ledge so we are in about 40 feet of water. We did put out a lot of chain so we should be fine. This is not the ideal anchoring conditions – but the good news is the wind is blowing us away from the reef. If we drag, we have quite a long way to go before getting to the other side of the inside channel. The reef keeps the roll and waves down – but there is nothing to block the wind should it pipe up. Its been blowing around 15 knots all morning for our sail and continues to stay around that speed. It is pretty here though. The clear, aquamarine water on the reef side and the island with several hills and Mt. Toomaru(1017 meters) behind us. There are lots of shadows created by the hills on the plateau and valleys so it is quite dramatic.
We'll be here to explore Taputaputea tomorrow morning and then perhaps head to the next island, Taha'a.
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Ra'iatea also boasts the islands only navigable river and its signature flower, tiare apetahi can only be grown on the island's 800 meter high Temehani Plateau.
We left Huahine early this morning (Tuesday) to sail across to Ra'iatea after being "stuck" due to weather in the fare anchorage. We had a bit of excitement in the anchorage with lots of boats coming and going in the squally weather (sometimes not as intended), a few rescues and the "bad ferry." This is the ferry that would come in way too close to the anchored yachts and also push an incredible wake. You'd think he didn't like sailboats! Bob on "Charisma" nicknamed it the "Bad Ferry."
We celebrated the day after Bastille Day with a "Let them eat cake" party aboard Astarte with friends from Buena Vista, Ladybug, and Charisma. We then went in for a happy, fun-filled "happy hour" on shore and enjoyed meeting some new boats.
Now we are on a new island and have this anchorage to ourselves. We've dropped the hook in about 20 feet of water with a sandy bottom but are sitting over a ledge so we are in about 40 feet of water. We did put out a lot of chain so we should be fine. This is not the ideal anchoring conditions – but the good news is the wind is blowing us away from the reef. If we drag, we have quite a long way to go before getting to the other side of the inside channel. The reef keeps the roll and waves down – but there is nothing to block the wind should it pipe up. Its been blowing around 15 knots all morning for our sail and continues to stay around that speed. It is pretty here though. The clear, aquamarine water on the reef side and the island with several hills and Mt. Toomaru(1017 meters) behind us. There are lots of shadows created by the hills on the plateau and valleys so it is quite dramatic.
We'll be here to explore Taputaputea tomorrow morning and then perhaps head to the next island, Taha'a.
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