The formalities of coming into a new country are completed – and in Noumea, New Caledonia it is quite an easy process. We went to Port Moselle marina on Monday and though we had to wait for a slip for several hours, we made our way into our slot with our yellow flag flying. Then Michael completed the many forms that were sent to customs by the marina office. Bio-security came aboard very quickly and it was Tatiana, the same woman we had last year. She was very efficient and took the last of our fresh goods. We had done a good job of not having any meat aboard so we didn't lose much. By the time we were at the marina, immigration was closed for the day. After a few hours of waiting, we took our yellow flag down – as is their system. That evening we had a very enjoyable time with friends Angelika and Harald – enjoying some champagne, wine and pizza with lots of laughs.
Also on Monday afternoon, Michael tried to sort the overheating/water leak engine issue. We motored for ten hours into New Caledonia – no water needed. We motored six hours up from Prony towards Noumea and needed to add water every half hour! So the problem was still unsolved. We got the name of a service nearby the marina from a few folks including our friend Eric of "Sirena of Aore." The guy asked if he could come down and take a quick look – he did, and within five minutes found the problem! It was the hose that ran to the water heater. Michael had checked it multiple times at the connections – but it was the center of the hose (under floor on the way back to the aft cabin) that was mushy. So we ordered new hose from the guy hoping it would be the end of the problem.
On Tuesday, after a breakfast of freshly bought French croissants and pan de chocolat, we headed for immigration to complete the check in process. We had written an article for Ocean Navigator's annual "Ocean Voyager" 2015 edition on the clearing in process. In that piece they used one of Michael's photos of the immigration office in New Caledonia with Rankin from "Gypsea Heart" clearing out. We brought a copy of the article and photo to the office with us – and the officer shown in the picture was the man on duty to check us in. So Michael gave him the piece. Then, another officer (a superior officer it seemed) came in the office and was shown the piece by "our" guy. Then it got a bit weird...the new guy asked who gave permission for the photo. Michael said the guy in the photo gave the permission than in French a conversation took place that didn't sound too friendly. Uh oh! But in the end, it all was good once the senior officer looked at the piece more carefully and saw other country officials in it and that piece was a positive and informative description of the proper way to clear into countries. So it all ended well – but it was a bit scary for a moment. New Caledonia after all, was a place for prisoners for many a year!
After the clear in was completed and we think we may have solved the engine problem, we did some provisioning. New Caledonia is definitely not a cheap place – except for the wine! But it is still cheaper to eat aboard than dining out. We have enjoyed meeting some new people here as well and catching up with some old acquaintances. The docks are always fun places to gather.
On Thursday though, we were ready to move out of the marina and head for some of the lovely anchorages this country has to offer. Plus we wanted to test out the engine to see if by-passing the water heater hose would solve the problem. So we motored for an hour and no water was needed. We sailed the next five hours down to the Baie de Prony – having a great sail (thanks also to the current on our favor). We then motored another hour upon arrival and no water needed. So we hope that this problem is behind us...and the cost was only $180 to find it and solve it! We were sure it would cost closer to $1000 so we were celebratory. Michael did all the work himself once Laurent found the problem. The cost was only the hose.
Now we are in Prony and back in the corner near the river, warm springs and waterfalls. We will do a fair amount of walking around the many trails here. We'll head back towards Noumea again when we are getting closer to departing the country in a few weeks or so. For now, we'll enjoy cruising around New Cal!
We probably won't get any trick or treaters here – but you never know! Happy Halloween everyone.
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At 10/29/2015 8:02 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 22°18.15'S 166°51.41'E
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Thursday, October 29, 2015
Friday, October 23, 2015
Bonjour from New Caledonia
We escaped from Vanuatu. It almost felt as if we earned our residency there. But it was a great four months and we enjoyed it again this season. We left in what looked to be a good weather window that opened up over the weekend. We did our outbound clearances with customs, immigration and the port authorities on Monday. It was a bit more expensive than we anticipated...Vanuatu needs to look at the fees they charge visiting yachts. But we love the country and especially the people.
We fueled and watered up over the weekend and the boat was pretty well organized. After paying our marina bill, picking up last supplies, we left on Tuesday morning at 0820. We motored out of the narrow channel, put up the sails and we were underway for the 300 mile trip to Noumea, New Caledonia.
We had to time our arrival for an incoming tide at the Havannah Pass which can get tricky with wind and a strong current. The wind was predicted to be relatively light and started south-easterly (not ideal) but was projected to become easterly and possibly even northeasterly. Those would be ideal, as we would be heading on a course of about 170 for most of the trip. We made a good deal of south-south westing for the first day – getting the captain, who loves his rhumb line, nervous. We were 31 miles right(NW) of the rhumb line before the winds gave us a slight change to the good. That only lasted a few hours. Though we were able to make it under sail almost the entire way. It was a pretty comfortable passage with slight to moderate seas and only a few light squalls. We were hard on the wind most of the trip and had to keep the speed down a bit to keep Astarte from pounding into the waves. But with the dodgey engine (or maybe its not!!) we were glad we could sail. We had to motor the last ten hours because the wind totally died and the current kept pushing us north and west. That was the interesting thing – over those ten hours, Michael didn't have to add water to the engine once...so it was obviously not leaking water nor overheating. Hmmm.....this marine mystery continues to baffle. But it was good that the engine ran like a champ.
We made it to the pass a little early and because there was less than five knots of wind, we tackled the entrance. It was slow going fighting the outgoing tide – but once inside the tide changed and slowly gave us the advantage. It was Friday and customs and immigration are not opened over the weekend (and close midday on Friday) so we pulled into the Bay of Prony and "Anse Majic" to get a mooring for the night. We'll move up to Noumea on either Sunday or Monday.
Now we have to clean up the offshore boat and make it an inshore vessel again. We should be in New Caledonia for at east a month or so before looking for a good weather window to New Zealand. We can't get to NZ too early because of the six month immigration limitation.
So we get to enjoy croissants, baguettes and french wine. Cheers.
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At 10/22/2015 6:56 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 22°09.22'S 167°07.98'E
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radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We fueled and watered up over the weekend and the boat was pretty well organized. After paying our marina bill, picking up last supplies, we left on Tuesday morning at 0820. We motored out of the narrow channel, put up the sails and we were underway for the 300 mile trip to Noumea, New Caledonia.
We had to time our arrival for an incoming tide at the Havannah Pass which can get tricky with wind and a strong current. The wind was predicted to be relatively light and started south-easterly (not ideal) but was projected to become easterly and possibly even northeasterly. Those would be ideal, as we would be heading on a course of about 170 for most of the trip. We made a good deal of south-south westing for the first day – getting the captain, who loves his rhumb line, nervous. We were 31 miles right(NW) of the rhumb line before the winds gave us a slight change to the good. That only lasted a few hours. Though we were able to make it under sail almost the entire way. It was a pretty comfortable passage with slight to moderate seas and only a few light squalls. We were hard on the wind most of the trip and had to keep the speed down a bit to keep Astarte from pounding into the waves. But with the dodgey engine (or maybe its not!!) we were glad we could sail. We had to motor the last ten hours because the wind totally died and the current kept pushing us north and west. That was the interesting thing – over those ten hours, Michael didn't have to add water to the engine once...so it was obviously not leaking water nor overheating. Hmmm.....this marine mystery continues to baffle. But it was good that the engine ran like a champ.
We made it to the pass a little early and because there was less than five knots of wind, we tackled the entrance. It was slow going fighting the outgoing tide – but once inside the tide changed and slowly gave us the advantage. It was Friday and customs and immigration are not opened over the weekend (and close midday on Friday) so we pulled into the Bay of Prony and "Anse Majic" to get a mooring for the night. We'll move up to Noumea on either Sunday or Monday.
Now we have to clean up the offshore boat and make it an inshore vessel again. We should be in New Caledonia for at east a month or so before looking for a good weather window to New Zealand. We can't get to NZ too early because of the six month immigration limitation.
So we get to enjoy croissants, baguettes and french wine. Cheers.
-----
At 10/22/2015 6:56 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 22°09.22'S 167°07.98'E
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Thursday, October 15, 2015
Where is Astarte?
Port Vila! Still. We wait and wait for weather to get to New Caledonia. Right now we are awaiting a depression that should pass over us on Saturday night – but earlier in the week we thought we could leave! It seems we look at weather and there is a good window to leave – but it is always a week away. As it approaches, the window closes. This time it slammed shut with a major storm heading this way. So we wait some more. Perhaps next week (though we've been saying that now since we arrived.)
New photos on the photo page – a little out of order – they are mostly from Losolava on the island of Gaua.
While we are waiting here in Port Vila, we have been getting some projects done aboard and been enjoying some social time with some new folks we've met. Michael's got the transmission oil changed, the engine oil changed, bilges emptied and cleaned and lots of littler things done. We've done lots of baking, cleaning and entertaining as well. Here is the "crew" that are stuck in Port Vila that we've been enjoying spending some time with at coffees, dinners, sundowners, Happy Hours, and now card and game playing. Some are heading to NZ, some to Oz and some to New Cal. There is Matt (our new sailing expert) and Sally aboard "Alchemy 2" from Tasmania; Laura and Bruce aboard "Pacific Highway" from the Virgin Islands; Kathryn and Anthony, New Zealanders we actually met in Asanvari aboard "Cobalt," Fran and Tom on a beautiful classic boat "Dagon" from New Zealand, "Exit Strategy" with Canadians Kim and Tom... plus our old (not age) British friends Bob and Sue on "Mawari" and Barry aboard "Blue Note" from Oz. There are plenty of folks here so we've enjoyed getting to know many quite well as we all wait for weather to go our separate ways.
So we wait...and wait....and wait.
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At 9/18/2015 8:28 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 17°44.75'S 168°18.73'E
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radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
New photos on the photo page – a little out of order – they are mostly from Losolava on the island of Gaua.
While we are waiting here in Port Vila, we have been getting some projects done aboard and been enjoying some social time with some new folks we've met. Michael's got the transmission oil changed, the engine oil changed, bilges emptied and cleaned and lots of littler things done. We've done lots of baking, cleaning and entertaining as well. Here is the "crew" that are stuck in Port Vila that we've been enjoying spending some time with at coffees, dinners, sundowners, Happy Hours, and now card and game playing. Some are heading to NZ, some to Oz and some to New Cal. There is Matt (our new sailing expert) and Sally aboard "Alchemy 2" from Tasmania; Laura and Bruce aboard "Pacific Highway" from the Virgin Islands; Kathryn and Anthony, New Zealanders we actually met in Asanvari aboard "Cobalt," Fran and Tom on a beautiful classic boat "Dagon" from New Zealand, "Exit Strategy" with Canadians Kim and Tom... plus our old (not age) British friends Bob and Sue on "Mawari" and Barry aboard "Blue Note" from Oz. There are plenty of folks here so we've enjoyed getting to know many quite well as we all wait for weather to go our separate ways.
So we wait...and wait....and wait.
-----
At 9/18/2015 8:28 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 17°44.75'S 168°18.73'E
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
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