Flexibility - In More Ways Than One

The cruising lifestyle requires flexibility. Your body must be flexible to move with the boat; to climb on and off the boat and dinghy; to hike over narrow paths and as we found out on Monday to climb up river rocks. You also must be flexible with your plans because of weather, repairs, how fast or slow the boat is going or how rolly an anchorage could be or what the “holding” of an anchorage is. We found that out yesterday as well and we “went with the flow”

On Monday, we stayed in Deshaies and went ashore to explore this quaint town. We also needed to clear in. We tried to figure out where to leave a dinghy – and the options looked like tying to the bridge over the Deshaies River or tying against the rocks on the side of the river. Because it had really rained hard the night before (we filled up two huge rain collectors – the Michael-made gutters really work), the river was flowing pretty strongly. Barbara stayed with the dinghy holding it off the rocks and Michael would go to the customs office to clear us in and see if he could find a dinghy place on a beach or elsewhere. He came back with the answer to the dinghy question – but customs was closed. The guide books all say clearing in is a matter of finding someone in the office. We retied the dinghy and roamed through town. Lots of restaurants – everything seemed to be named “Chez (fill in a very French name here).” So French! We found a few nice little vegetable stands, fisherman were selling mahi from their trucks on the street (but we caught our own!) and there was a few patisseries (so Michael had to test their pain de chocolat.)

Michael had success with customs later and then we went on the hike along the river. Well actually it was more IN the river than along the river. It was a very exciting, slippery, athletic adventure. One that required physical flexibility climbing over big rocks, roots and through mini-currents.

The flora was lush and green and everything seemed huge.

The fauna was also interesting – leaf cutter ants,

fearless French frogs (actually toads),

bugs of the biting kind and beautiful bird sounds, It was quite a workout and the water was pretty brown because of the rain the night before.

There were mini-waterfalls dropping over the rocks along the river. We climbed along the muddy shore as well through the river on the rocks. It was pretty shallow so it was certainly passable. We made it quite a way up but we didn’t want to get stuck in the woods after dark so we got to a good pool, soaked awhile and then headed back.

A giant toad was located – one seen on the way up and one on the way down. A photo is below and we’d love someone to identify it for us. It really was fearless. Barbara almost grabbed it climbing along the rocks and it didn’t move. When “poked” it gets on its back legs and puffs up – but doesn’t move.

Barbara got a few bites from something(s)– also unidentified.

Exhausted and invigorated from the adventure, we got back to the boat.

On Tuesday, we decided to head south to Basse Terre. Basse Terre is the capital and our plan was to anchor there for the night then head around the corner to Point a Pitre to get the hydraulic hose/system fixed to get the center board up. Now we’d have to treat ourselves like a deep draft vessel. We headed out, sailed for awhile until the wind started coming from the south. Flexibility was the theme of the day. We stopped at an anchorage, Anse a la Barque” thinking we’d stay there for the night as it was more protected than Basse Terre and there was a big swell. After getting in there – it was very deep and not much protection from the swell and a bit crowded with fishing boats on moorings. So we decided to continue to Basse Terre. As we headed south, the wind really picked up as did the seas, so we decided Basse Terre would be a really bad place to stay (there is absolutely no protection there). So we went back to Anse a la Barque. We tried anchoring there - FOUR times. The holding was terrible – we couldn’t get the anchor to hold. So, being flexible, we determined it was going to be a rocking night wherever – so we might as well have better holding in Basse Terre. So back we went. We started to look at the guide book seeing if there was anyplace else on the other side of the island closer to Point a Pitre.,,and we saw Ile de Sants was only 12 more miles from Basse Terre. So we chose to continue south to “The Saints.” This was on our plan – so we thought we’d do it now and then head to Point a Pitre for repairs.

The Saints are always listed on top ten charts of islands to go to. We missed them in 2001 so it was a definite must stop this time. There are several anchorages in the area – near the town or around other little uninhabited islands. We went by one – but it was crowded so we headed towards town. We tried anchoring here FOUR times as well. The holding was not great – and again, we’re in deep water. We finally got “stuck” in 40 feet of water – and we’re settled – though will probably move on Wednesday as we’re quite a way out.

It was a comfortable night – but a day of changing our plans multiple times. Flexibility.