Flaming Bull, Hand Grenades and Adios Providencia

Sorry about all the bovine headlines lately - but it seems cows and bulls are dominating the islands activities! It's been a busy few days. Let's start with Monday, July 19. The Bicentennial Celebration of Colombia's Independence from Spain started with some festivities in the square. It started with a group of junior high aged kids playing the National Anthem (a few times). Then a younger person's band performed, followed by a choral group (sort of in the "We Are the World" tradition) that included just about every kid at the event. This was followed by more musical groups with a few special highlights - the young maracas player was really into it; a mandolin player was quite good and a violinist/fiddler young woman had more attitude than aptitude. Of course to enjoy the evening we had a few brews and vendor treats of the empanada variety (chicken and crab). We also tried something that translates to chicken cake. All were quite tasty. Then the military contingent carrying flags and rifles arrived followed by a group of them carrying torches. We weren't sure if a "Survivor-Providencia" was being filmed - but it turned out that the tribe wasn't going to throw someone off the island - but rather the torches were for a different purpose.

The Boca Loca was next. Now that doesn't really have an appropriate English translation (crazy mouth would be the literal translation) - but it's an event that involves a bull with its horns on aflame chasing people around the square. The bull is really a real bull's skeleton head (horns filled with some type of incendiary liquid); and a bamboo body skeleton covered with canvas. Several of the military contingents get under it and run it around the square, through the crowd chasing people to some traditional music. Nobody could really explain the relevance of any of it - but "it's fun." The kids loved being chased and it was quite a sight to watch.

On Tuesday, July 20 - the actual Independence Day (200th year) started with a parade. We were told it was to start at 0800 - but by now we've caught on that nothing starts when scheduled. So we decided to just wait until we saw activity. We finally saw the new red fire truck and decided things were happening. So we headed towards the coliseum for a view. There were horses leading the parade followed by the new red fire truck, dignitaries, then, the military - (which is where the hand grenades in the headline come in.) There were several groups of well armed men marching and chanting. Then came the special forces unit - many in gilley suits (that's wild camouflage outfits with shredded material - very camouflaged!), camouflage makeup, major weaponry including hand grenades in their shirt pockets, rifles, night vision goggles and many, many bullets in bandoliers across their chests and backs. It was quite a sight - pretty sure much of the gear provided by their friends in the USA). After the military and police groups, the theme of the parade became quite clear. Different schools or classrooms depicted an area of Colombia - with native dress, flags and dioramas as well as music from that area. The bands were fun to watch as were the teenaged women in spike gold heels and short dresses or skirts that had a hip pointer walk and a few choreographed moves. There were also groups of adults from different organizations marching.

This is an island of about 5000 people - so the parade was much like a small town parade - but you could tell they were all very proud of the event. We did enjoy it.

Following the parade, we did some last minute organizing on the boat and prepared to clear out of the country. We had a 1700 appointment with the agent Mr. Bush and waited for a ride to the immigration office. He warned us that the authorities might make a request that we take a man with us to Panama that they were deporting. We told him we would not do that and luckily we weren't asked. Imagine!

We cleared out and got picked up, yet again, by the local police. Yup, another ride in the Colombian National Police van - this time escorted by seven officers! A tour of the island was again provided - though the real reason was they had to pick up officers from various beach locations - end of shift we think. They are all very friendly and we were glad that we were in the van for transportation and no other reason. The cops love to blare the siren though - for any pretty girl, friend or relation or just whenever they want to pass someone.

After our clearing out adventure and parting with $100 to Mr. Bush for all the paperwork, we went aboard Ivory Moon for dinner. Because we were leaving, they treated us to a magnificent roast chicken dinner. Champagne, French wine and an incredible blackberry (mora) dessert made it for a festive evening. We will miss the moonies as they are still awaiting a boat part but we thought it was time to move on.

We are currently sailing - but going very, very slow as the wind is on our nose and we are tacking a few miles off the course line. We left at 0800 and have probably only made ten miles by 1500. At this speed it'll take us ten days to get to Panama! We're hoping for the predicted wind shift - but the seas are flat, the sun is shining and we're enjoying sailing. The cost of fuel is so high, we'll take going slow for awhile. We have 250 miles to get to Linton.

So after a month on Providencia, we are glad to be under way. But we do like that island.

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