Waterspouts and Rain

A large waterspout was spotted over the Coco Banderas - not far from Esnasdup where we are anchored. It was quite a sight and we were glad to not be caught in it but rather looking at it. We've had a few rainy days in Esnasdup and cleaning has been the order of the day with all the "free" water. There have been a few close lightning storms which can be scary. Michael's still trying to solve electric meter issues and Barbara's baking up a storm.

We've enjoyed watching the Kuna Indians fishing and diving in the area. It's been interesting (and disappointing) to see that many of the ulus (canoes) are now equipped with outboards. We miss seeing them paddle the ulus as they are incredibly skilled paddlers. In fact, in the Lemons, there was a small five year old albino Kuna boy who could handle a large ulu by himself - rowing all over the anchorage to visit the boats. He was paddling good distances and very stable in the boat standing up, paddling alongside our boat and just being able to handle this large, heavy dugout canoe. Michael decided that this five year old could kick his butt! They paddle the ulus from the back and only on one side using a J stroke to keep the boat straight. We've watched them paddle fully loaded ulus (loaded with bananas, coconuts and even rocks) against wind and waves and maintain a steady pace. As they paddle, they also seem to manage keeping the ulus from flooding - using a coconut husk they bail pretty consistently. So it's normally, paddle, paddle, paddle, bail. Paddle, paddle, paddle, bail. With the outboards now, it's not as enjoyable to watch these graceful craft and boatmen at work. Over time, it will also be interesting to see if the Kunas (who are all quite fit) will start gaining weight.

The Kunas line fish in many of these anchorages. They use a treble hook with a small piece of white plastic, toss the line (no rods and reels) and then work the line with a steady jerking motion. They seem to consistently bring in small fish using this technique. Some of the Kunas also set small nets - both hand held nets (two Kunas and a net with sticks) as well as some larger set nets. It's quite a sight watching them bring in full nets into a rocking ulu.

Of course, we have the option to buy these fish as well as the lobsters and sometimes crab that they catch. The lobsters and crab are gathered by the Kunas who dive the reefs. They do this with limited gear - usually just an old mask.

While the Kuna men seem to fish, the Kuna women continue to try to sell their crafts - the molas and jewelry that they make. Sometimes they'll come out in the ulus with their goods to sell - also proving themselves to be excellent boat paddlers.

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