Let's go back a few days. We arrived in Pinos and stayed two nights resting up from the passage and Michael did some projects (oil change and water filter change). Barbara did some baking, laundry and organizing. We never got hit up for a Kuna fee (nor did we go on the island). The days were rainy and grey but we were in a pretty spot and enjoyed watching the Kunas glide past and fish. On Monday morning bright and early, we pulled anchor and headed up the chain. Our original plan was to spend more time in this part of Kuna Yala and explore a bit, but we decided that we wanted to Christmas with friends. So we ended up moving on more quickly. The first day took us between islands and Kuna villages with interesting names and stories. After about 35 miles, we dropped the anchor near the village of St. Ignacio de Tupile (Tannaquetupu in Kuna) – but everyone calls it Tupile now. It's a crowded little community and we watched a non-stop ulu (their canoes) traffic jam. They usually get water via a pipeline (as in small pipe) from the Mono River on the mainland out to their island. Unfortunately, the massive amounts of rain they've had in this area has broken the pipe so the Kunas must row up the river and fill buckets and row back to their vllage. So the stream of people – men, women, children, in all sizes of ulus and "launchas" row back and forth. The ulus are quite low in the water as they row back loaded with big buckets, barrels or jugs of water. They bail and row, bail and row, bail and row across to the village.
We did get hit up for the Kuna fee but managed to negotiate down from $10 to $5 because we would only be staying one night. Another Kuna came by offering to bring by lobsters or crab the next morning and tried to sell us molas as well. We are back in Kuna Yala!!!
On Tuesday morning, again, bright and early, we pulled anchor and headed towards Nargana (also called Yandup and Akuanusatupu – two islands attached with a bridge) near the Rio Diablo. We've been here many times and its one of the few places to get fuel, phone cards and some provisions. The sail over was really enjoyable – a quiet, motor free day (saving fossil fuel and boat $$). We went past many pretty islands and reef areas.
We got into Nargana a bit before 1500 and instantly started on getting into town. The dinghy had to be inflated and hoisted, the outboard Yoshi put back to work, Michael put the diesel on deck into the tank and we headed to town. We were able to get some diesel (cheaper than Colombia). Frederico, a Kuna we've met and visited with several times while here in Nargana, met us at Pacos (the fuel dock) and proceeded to walk us all over town and help us shop. Thanks to his escort, we discovered a new bakery (you would never find it unless you knew where it was, with freshly made bread. In Nargana there are several little panaderias (bakeries) where you can get bread so it was surprising to see yet another one. These bakeries are huts with a stove. This bread was different than the traditional kuna breadstick style bread – it was actual long narrow loaves – more like french baguette but not crusty. Then we went to a few tiendas for some fresh food. The phone card place was closed. Frederico came back to the boat with us and took our garbage which he burns (we pay for that service).
This morning we need to get propane, a bit more supplies, and phone cards so we can call home for Christmas if the cell phone towers are in service (sometime they are and sometimes they're not). But we need some recharge cards to be able to even try. Then hopefully we'll be done before noon to make it to the "swimming pool" in the Eastern Holandes Islands where we'll connect with some friends and celebrate Christmas.
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