In those two years after leaving the home dock, we've put more than 6500 nautical miles under the keel. That would be about 7475 statute miles. We've been to the Bahamas, Turks & Caicos, Puerto Rico, US Virgins, St. Martins, St. Barts, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, various islands of St. Vincent and the Grenadines' (Bequia, Mayreau and Union Island), Grenada (including Carriacou), the out islands of Venezuela (Los Testigos, La Blanquilla, Los Roques, and Islas de Aves), Bonaire, Curacao, Venezuela's Los Monjes, several stops on Colombia's Caribbean coast and Cartagena, Panama's San Blas/Kuna Yala area as well as Linton and Portobello areas, Providencia (Colombian owned) and Honduras' Roatan and Guanaja islands then back to Providencia (with stops on some reefs along the way including the Hobbies) and back to Panama then back to Colombia and again back to Panama. Whew. We've stopped counting the various anchorages or specific islands at which we've anchored.
We've dealt in various currencies including dollars (US, Bahamian), E Cs (Eastern Caribbean); Euros (French/Dutch islands), Pesos (Colombia), Lempira (Honduras), Balboas (Panama – they are actually the US dollar but they mint their own coins), and Bolivars (Venezuela).
The languages on the shores we've visited as well as amongst other cruisers have been numerous. English (of the US, Canadian, Australian, British, and New Zealand varieties), French, Dutch, German, various island dialects, Kuna and Spanish. Our Spanish continues to improve – we've passed on learning the others.
As one boater once said, "cruising is a series of howdies and so longs" and through the two-years we've met some incredible people on land and aboard other boats. We've been out long enough to see people multiple times in various countries and the reunions are always great fun. We've made friends from many countries and always look forward to making new acquaintances. After two years, now we're not always the "newbies" - though amongst many boaters, we have decades to go before we have their level of experience. Many cruisers are what we call "commuter cruisers" - living part time aboard and part time on land. We're full time cruisers staying on the boat most of the time with the occasional visit to see our moms, family and friends and take care of some business.
We've stayed at anchor most of the two years with marina stops only when absolutely necessary. Marinas do a number on your cruising budget. The anchor chain looks like its been in the salt water for the two years it has!
We never counted the number of books we've read – but there have been many great reads and book trades are one of our best entertainment sources. The good thing about trades is that you read things you would probably never buy for yourself in a bookstore – and most of our favorite reads these last two years were the books we got on trades.
Boat maintenance is an ongoing adventure. Cruising has been described as "fixing your boat in exotic locations." We've had fun times and great adventures hunting out boat parts and repair options on various islands in various languages. Every time we've managed to make a friend and learn a lot about a country. Michael has managed to get the boat back in working order after each new issue.
Sampling local cuisine is another of the true joys of this adventure. We love trying new fruits, vegetables and local street and restaurant food whenever possible (and if our budget permits). Tasting every beer on every island is also a cause Michael (and Barbara) endorse. At one point we started a list of all the beers – but have somehow stopped counting them as well. Luckily, we've been healthy over these two years cruising – both of us have shed some pounds and are in better shape than when we were working our landside jobs.
Fishing - by line or spear has continued to challenge us. We've had some luck - but not enough to really be considered "fish-gatherers." The biggest to date was a lovely grouper Michael scored by spear. There was also a nice collection of hog fish from the Hobbies (until the spear broke), some lobsters and conch gathered, along with a few mahi on the line. We're hoping the next two years bring us more fishing joy (with or without bananas on board). If we fail, we hope to travel with boats that are great fish gatherers and will share (like our friends aboard Tumshi).
Guests have graced us with their company – Lorna and Dave came to the Turks & Caicos, Honduras and Panama; Kathryn and Mark visited in Panama and hopefully will join us in Honduras, Richard and Rene made a San Blas visit as did Margaret and Lloyd and Frank broke out of his Ohio existence for a Grenada visit. We love the company and look forward to having more friends decide that an Astarte visit is worth the effort.
We've managed to live within our budget and still keep track of every penny we spend. Some countries cost less than others whether its for supplies, food and fuel or for their immigration, customs and cruising permits. Our guests have been generous bringing us many a spare part and food treats. Health insurance remains our single biggest expense costing us almost 40% of our annual spending (for little coverage!)
Things have been wonderful for us – but there are some hardships as well. We miss the ability to pick up a phone and call our friends and family easily. Seeing family and friends is more costly and takes major planning (where to leave the boat etc.) so it happens less frequently than we would like. And maybe on some days, we miss ice cream and potato chips.
But we do have each other (yes, we are still happily married), an incredible boating community and sunrises and sunsets in exotic locations. We've been to places that are only accessible by sea and have had wonder-filled experiences. Whether on the water, under the water, or on land we are building a mental album chock-filled with great memories.
It's been a happy and marvelous two years aboard Astarte. We're glad we didn't wait any longer to start this adventure. Thanks for being aboard via this log.
Perhaps we'll toast it with champagne (or a local beer).
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