Thursday, September 24, 2009

Cartagena de Indias, Colombia

For a city founded in 1533, you wouldn't know it as you sail into the harbour! The high rises abound with more being built. Looks like a building boom in this historic old city. We have arrived and are anchored outside of Club Nautico along with about 40 other boats. But first, let's step back a few days to catch up.

On Tuesday morning at 0300 we pulled up the anchor and motor-sailed away from Rodedero. There was little wind until just after sunrise (which was magnificent over the Colombian mountains). We put the genoa up and started to sail in the building seas. It was a good sail, one of the first times we could sail with both genoa and main on a nice reach. We got good pictures of "Tumshi" for their website (they are selling the boat).

As we approached the Rio Magdalena, you could see the brown water from it in the distance. The seas at this point were quite large but Astarte was riding over the swells gracefully. Memories of 2001 flooded back - this is where, on our old boat Mariah, we almost took a knockdown! The heavier boat was handling seas and conditions much smoother - plus the conditions were more benign than in 2001. Just as we approached the river, Michael hooked something BIG. It spun off a lot of line off the reel. It was fighting it a long time. Then, we entered the brown water of the Rio Magdalena outflow and it spooked this fish and it shook off the hook. Huge bummer.

We crossed the five mile wide swath of brown water filled with floating water hyacinths, wood and debris. It was interesting how many bugs got on the boat as we were over this area. There was a variety of species from dragonflies to mosquitoes and flies. After we passed through the "ugly" water we headed for Punta Hermosa - a spit of land jutting out into the Caribbean.

There were fishing nets to avoid as well as the sandy end of the growing spit. But we nested behind the spit and dropped the anchor. This would be the last clear water for awhile - so we enjoyed a last swim, a last check and scrape of the bottom, and a good long shower!

On Wednesday morning, we left Punta Hermosa at 0600 to head the 57 miles to Cartagena. No wind. We had to motor most of the way. We had to get in before dark. We finally put the sails up for the last few hours of the trip. We had fishing lines out and only landed two very small Tunny -the lure was almost bigger than the fish!

Entering Cartagena is interesting. You can go through the big shipping channel Boca Chica - or you can take a cut over the underwater wall and sneak into the harbour. The underwall wall was built to keep invading ships and pirates from coming into the city. The wall has a relatively narrow cut in it - allowing you to pass over a depth of 11 feet. Now it is well marked with buoys so it is not quite as challenging.

We came in and it took awhile to find a spot to anchor amongst the fleet of boats here. Club Nautico - the cruisers' hangout - is under remodeling and quite torn up. It has fewer docks available so it seems there are more boats at anchor. Colombia is also much more "popular" with cruising boats now than in 2001 when we first visited this place. The bottom is an ugly sticky, dark muck that you must let your anchor just sort of sink into. We tried putting the boat into reverse too soon and simply drug the anchor through the muck. It took several tries to find the right spot - not too close to other boats. The wind was coming from an odd direction so we knew everyone would be swinging at some point.

Once set - after 1700 - we enjoyed a drink in the cockpit and the view of Cartagena.

Today, we get an agent and officially clear into Colombia.

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