On Sunday/Monday from Curacao to Monjes, Venezuela we caught nothing. We had bananas on board. Cooked banana bread on Tuesday morning. No more bananas on board. On Tuesday/Wednesday from Monjes to Cabo de la Vela - no fish. No bananas. However, our traveling boat company "Tumshi" caught a lovely tuna and we all feasted on their boat. It was a really yummy tuna and a great meal with great company. So at least we ATE fresh fish. After the meal - we were exhausted and called it an early night. Unfortunately it ended up being a short night as the wind shifted to the south and created a terribly uncomfortable anchorage. As the guide says "Cabo de la Vela is untenable in winds other than easterly." They are right. It was a gunnel to gunnel roll. Our first night on the South American continent (yup - a new continent for Astarte) wasn't very comfortable.
Thursday morning, we head off at 0930 for Five Bays - about 120 miles. Fish lines in the water before the sails are even up. Barbara decides to try a spoon, Michael a silver headed yellow lure. Sails up and we're doing about 4 knots through the water. First hit on Barbara's line. A second hit on Michael's line almost simultaneously. Our first double hit. Barbara brings hers in - a nice little mahi on board. Michael starts to pull his in and loses not just the fish - but the lure. Bummer. But we have one on board. The jinx is over (and there are no bananas on board!)
Lines back in - Michael decides on another lure. Not too long - and Barbara gets another hit. Another mahi - but this one is pretty small - and is still quite alive - so it's released. Then another hit on Barbara's line - another mahi landed. So we've had four hits, one lost lure, one released, and two on board. Michael switches to a spoon. Another hit on Michael's line and he just about gets him to the boat - and lost. Lure too. Barbara gets another hit - something big - not a mahi. Swimming deep - really pulling. She loses it before she can even see it - but it was big enough to bend the spoon. Michael gets a hit - pulls in a good size Little Tunny (oxymoron - big little tunny?) (Euthynnus alletteratus - for our marine scientists). Anyway - this is not a favorite of ours and is described in the fish book we use as "not highly valued as a food source." So back he goes. In awhile - another hit - another Little Tunny. Another fish returned to the sea. So by the end of the "no banana" day - eight hits; five got on board; two kept; three fish lost and two lures lost and one lure bent! Not a bad day for Astarte - it sure made the sail go by quickly.
Besides fishing, we also had to go through a few squalls - which meant bringing in the sails and battening down the hatches. We timed it great. The bad news on this long sail was that we did have to motor a fair amount. The winds were very light which meant the seas were great (meaning - next to no waves except as the squalls passed). So it was comfortable except for having to listen to the engine. We did get some good sailing in as the sun came up. But no additional fish or even hits.
We are now anchored in one of the "Five Bays" along with Tumshi. We'll dine on mahi with them tonight - our turn to share. We have started the "Cruising the Columbian Coast" fishing tournament (nothing like a little competition.) So far Astarte is ahead on hits; but we're tied with two each on board - and Tumshi is winning with weight. They've gotten two nice size tunas and he also lost a whole rig to something. So off the Columbian coast there are three fish with lures hanging from them - looking very tough!
We're anchored in a different bay than the one we anchored in 2001. We are in the first of the five bays. This one is called Bahia Cinto. It's very beautiful - surrounded by big forested hills; palm studded beaches; clear water; a nice reef; fancy thatched roof homes and a fishing camp. There is a steady breeze keeping it cool. After the rock of Monjes and the desolate hillsides (eaten brown by sheep and goats) of Cabo de la Vela, the green forested hills are very lovely. There are lots and lots of butterflies around as well - bright yellow ones, red one, black and red ones, and white or faint yellow ones. They come to the boat and fly around.
As we came into the area, we saw the snow-covered (yes, SNOW covered mountains) of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (the world's highest coastal mountain range). Its twin summits, Simon Bolivar and Christopher Colon - both are 5775 meters, are covered in snow and very awe-inspiring. It's amazing seeing snow-covered peaks when you're in warm water and the hot sun! But a magnificent sight to be greeted to at sunrise..
In store for today - cleaning up the boat after a 26 plus hour trip. Make some brownies for tonight's dinner party. Get the mahi ready for cooking and get in the water to cool off and clean-up. Michael already saw some robin-fish and a moray near the boat when he went to check the anchor. So it should be good snorkeling.
Welcome to the South American part of Astarte's adventure.
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