We spent a few additional days in Tupbak - Michael helped a local man - Horation Martinez, repair a few items. He also rowed out and brought his wife's and daughters' molas for us to see. They were quite beautiful and we purchased a few. We snorkeled along a great reef with lots of caves and alleyways carved into the coral. Michael is forever searching for lobster - but has only seen undersized ones.
We enjoyed Tupbak (Isla Pinos) and are glad we stopped there and spent a few days. Many cruisers miss this part of Kuna Yala - and head right to the "popular" spots. We decided we may or may not be back and we should enjoy the spots along the way. Plus, with company coming, we wanted to see if there were places we should try to come back towards.
After our Tupbak adventures, we decided it was time to move to the next stop. We selected Ustupu, the largest village in Kuna Yala. Trading boats come in from Colombia and we are anchored between the dock and an islet, Isla Mosquito (hoping it isn't filled with the biting critters). Just as we approached a big rain squall with heavy wind came in and it was interesting to watch all the men paddling their ulus in from the jungle. They were struggling in those heavy canoes, loaded down with coconuts and bananas. But, they are quite strong paddlers. We anchored and watched the rain come in. Then Michael spotted that the Colombian boat that came in just after us, was selling fruits and vegetables off the boat. He headed in with Friedl and came back with all kinds of goodies - tomatoes, carrots,peppers, cabbage, beets, squash, cukes. It's hard to get fresh stuff on the islands so this was like hitting the jackpot. He also found diesel on the island - which has been an issue. We've had to motor everywhere - so we are getting low on fuel. Unfortunately, it was very expensive so we settled for 10 gallons. He also had to pay the Kuna Yala fee ($8). This is adding up having to pay $8 to $10 at every anchorage. It isn't bad when you stay for several days but the single night stops are expensive. But we're still glad to stop and see these places.
Last night we feasted again on Tumshi - he caught a nice barracuda and grilled up the steaks. It was very tasty. We know we've eaten "cuda" before - but it was always disguised as something else. This was very tasty. Another couple off a French boat joined in the festivities. It was fun to sit at a table with so many languages being spoken.
Today (Thursday), we'll move on again.
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