Coconut palms line the pretty beaches and cover the island. Coconuts used to be Kuna currency and every tree is owned by some Kuna tribesman. You cannot pick up a coconut and take it - it would be considered robbery and when caught there is a $50 fine. The land is divided up and the trees on your piece of land are yours. The coconuts are sold to the Columbian trading ships that come in plus some islands press the coconuts for coconut oil that they sell. Daily, you'll see ulus going by filled with coconuts and also see the outer husks floating by. They only sell the inner nut.
After arriving at the island on Saturday, another Kuna came by to collect the anchoring fee. Kuna Yala looks like it can get expensive if you stop at a lot of islands and have to pay $10 with each stop. This place was actually only $8 and he offered to take our garbage which was good. A few ulus with kids came by as well - they are always looking for sweets. There are a lot of Kuna children.
After a swim/shower, a bit of baking, some outboard repairs and boat cleaning, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner aboard Tumshi. Friedl caught a magnificent tuna - it was huge - just as he was approaching the island. There is some argument as to what kind of fish it was (perhaps a yellow fin). We'll await Mark and Kathryn's visit and a look at the photo for proper identification. It was tasty whatever it was! We tried our luck with a line in - but we had no such luck. Now, Tumshi did have bananas on board and landed one giant fish. So the banana theory still is being tested.
Today, Sunday, we went ashore. We met the gentleman who came by to collect the fee and he took us on a tour of the island. First we had to stop by the Chief's hut for permission. It cost us $2 each for that permission to walk around the island. With that fee, you were allowed to take photographs (not of people) and we got to places that you really aren't allowed. We circumnavigated by foot the entire island - taking us about 3 hours. We went through the "village of the dead" (which is a restricted place according to all the guide books). This is where Kunas are buried - three to a hut. It was a piece of cleared land on a hillside with a wonderful view and actually some grass growing. The walk took us through banana groves, coconut trees, some ancient mango trees, avocado trees, over rocks, through muddy paths (with nasty mosquitoes) - and it was a great lesson in the ecology of the island. One green snake ran over Barbara's foot and scurried off. The guide told Michael (who was trying to get a photo of it) to not to get too close to it (hmmm).
We enjoyed the tour, than sat and learned more about Kuna traditions. Our guide showed us some of the tools they use to make their "sacred" drinks as well as a jaguar skin. We sat near his hut and enjoyed a cold (yes VERY cold) beer for 80 cents each. The beer - "Old Milwaukee." (can you believe that??)
Then, we were invited to come back in the afternoon and look at all the molas made by the women on the island. Molas are one of the main handicrafts for the Kunas and how the women make their money. They wear them as part of their clothing - stitched on as part of their blouses (one mola in front - one in back). The molas are intricately designed, layers of fabric with a variety of stitching. Most are colorful and often depict marine animals, birds, fruits, lizards, butterflies as well as the more traditional geometric designs. The quality of a mola is dependant on many things - the number of layers of cloth; the detail and closeness of the stitches and of course the design. Many sell for high prices and some people collect them. So we went in at three to look at the molas. We were invited to sit in the "congresso" building - a large hut that is their meeting room. While waiting, the women set up their molas outside on the dirt road and then we went and looked at them. It was a bit strange - we felt awkward having all these women waiting for us to decide if we would purchase any. We selected a few and negotiated prices.
Then we went back to the boats exhausted after a very full day in the heat of the tropics. The hike was great - but long and hot.
We'll sleep well tonight - hopefully the rain won't come so we can keep the boat opened.
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