We got to Nargana and anchored further from town - a bit closer to the "jungle." There is a steady breeze so we hoped that would keep the "chi chis" away. (Those would be the blood sucking bugs that leave itchy bumps!) Michael proceeded with fuel runs - at $3.75 a gallon for diesel we burnt through $100 plus quickly. You go to Paco's dock for the fuel (Frederico will deliver it to your boat for $4.00 a gallon). We then went into town - and did a run to Tienda Eides and picked up some nice tomatoes, eggs, and Kuna bread. Had a beer (Hawk) and ice cream (Barbara) with some friends and enjoyed seeing the town getting decorated for Christmas. It seems the Kuna's are quite excited about the holidays with decorated trees in their huts and the town square set up with man made lighted trees (lights strung up poles with a star on the top). It is very festive - but with the heat, it's hard to think its Christmas. The kids are all out school for vacation so there are lots of activities, music and teens and young children running around.
On Sunday, we decided we'd do laundry up the Rio Diablo (Devil's River). We had done a dinghy trip up this river one very rainy day with our friends from Tumshi. But today, we had a mission. A lot of laundry. We had been waiting for rain since Mark and Kathryn left - but Kuna Yala rained itself out ON them! We loaded the dinghy with buckets and bins, lots of laundry, soap, bleach and "stain removers" (like that's going to actually work!). We went quite a way up river until the water got very clear and anchored in the middle. We washed and rinsed in the river - this was the best rinse the clothes ever got! No crocodiles - but lots of pretty bird to see and to listen to as we laundered.
Back to the boat, lines were strung everywhere to hang the massive amount of laundry. Luckily it was a sunny and breezy day - so most of it dried quickly.
Late afternoon, we went into the village again for gasoline, bread (no joy - the bakers didn't work) and dinner out! This would be the first dinner out since Cartagena! We went to one of the two "fondas" in town with Honore and Walt from "Will o' the Wisp" and Jim from "Wonderland". This fonda (restaurant) is run by the local congresso (governing body of the villages). It's under the "pool hall" and next to the Panama army headquarters. There was a bit of a battle between competing "boom boxes" for music rights… of course we thought the guys with the guns would win! Of course that particular boom box was actually in the restaurant so it could get a bit loud. The restaurant is a little covered and open patio with a few tables. We got there about 1700 and the verbal menu for that night included lobster, a crab dish and chicken. No fish. No conch. No whole crab. When asked the price of the lobster dinner - the answer was $4 or $5. Barbara and Honore had the lobster - they were very small (guess the congresso doesn't follow the catching rules) - but very tasty. Michael had the crab "stew" - it was also tasty. A huge platter of tomatoes was also served to the table. Jim from Wonderland treated us all to the dinner (very nice of him). After dinner, we took a little walk around the island and then everyone headed back to Astarte for some dessert and conversation. It was a busy and fun day and we stayed up way past "cruisers' midnight."
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