Rene Catching Up with Richard's Help

On Tuesday we dinghied to Carti on the island of Sugdup where we first met the Sailas or Chief who charged us $10 to anchor and $3 each to visit the Kuna Yala museum which was a thatched hut with dirt floor much like the Kuna homes. A young Kuna man who spoke English asked us to sit in chairs as he lectured to us and pointed to objects and pictures explaining Kuna history, customs and lifestyle. We learned about chicha beer made from bananas and sugarcane, that everyone has a spiritual doll called a nuchu that after death is put in a small boat and set out to sea to release one's soul, and that from birth to burial a person sleeps in the same hammock. We saw a communal kitchen hut which makes sense to consolidate the heat in one place. There were many children in the paths between the densely placed homes, and one concrete school which is now closed until March for the dry season.

In the afternoon we motored to the Los Grullos group of islands and anchored between two of them to catch the breezes. Barbara had a swim while others napped, then Richard and I snorkeled to one of the islands and checked out the reef. The opposite island had a small resort where reportedly for $75/night one could stay in a dirt-floored hut with a mattress and receive 3 meals per day. Entertainment there included snorkeling, swinging in a hammock, riding in a ponga (motor-powered local wooden boat) or just veging out. After our showers on the back of the boat, we got ready for a turkey dinner shared with Honoree and Walt from Will o' the Wisp. We had a great evening hearing more stories about the San Blas Islands.

Wed. morning when I awoke I thought we had a beautiful deep blue sky but when I shook the cobwebs out I realized it was the blue canvas shade Mike had hoisted over our hatch! The real sky was beautiful too. We pulled anchor mid-morning and sailed to the Naguargandup Cays, passing Moron Island where Michael wants to be King, and finally anchoring near Salardup. Richard and I caught a quick swim to the island before lunch and then naps after. That afternoon we visited Pixie and George aboard Silver Seas, a 38' Island Packet, who are friends of Elaine and Howard Rothstein. We were interested in checking out storage modifications on their boat and we had an enjoyable hour chatting with them. Thank you Matt R. for the supremo eggplant parmesan recipe that we all thoroughly enjoyed for dinner. Yum.

Thursday we followed Mike out to the reefs to see nature at its best. We not only saw beautiful, living coral, we saw a crab and stone fish hiding inside a coral formation, and many amazing fish and sponges. It was a challenge for us to swim into the current yet we learned how to maneuver with the ebb and flow. We moved the boat to the Rio Sidra island and before we could finish anchoring some Kunas in an ulu (paddled dugout boat) came by to sell molas. There had been others at other sites but finally we decided to buy 4 from Belasario, a Kuna albino who was obviously getting burned from the sun. We gave him some sunscreen and Barbara and Mike added more sunscreen and sunglasses. He expressed gratitude for the purchase as well as the gifts. Walt and Honoree called on the radio to say they had bought crab and lobster for us at a great price. They showed up in the afternoon and the crustaceans were steamed and left for cracking later. The 6 of us went ashore for a tour of the island and were greeted by Ena and Toby who acted as our guides. This island only requested $1 each to enter and we were on our way. Cold beer and soda was needed on a hot afternoon as we walked the dirt paths between the bamboo huts and greeted the many Kunas who came out to see us. There were so many children on this island; 375 in their school we were told. We saw the Congresso hut, the Christian church, school, chicha building where festivals are held, and the communal kitchen. I bought another mola from Ophelia and felt pleased with the day's purchases. When we returned to the boat, Richard, Mike and Barbara cracked and picked the crab, which looks somewhat like King crab, and Rene make slaw. With fresh spinach added to that, we had a feast. Tomorrow will be an exciting day; stay tuned.

From Rene. The SUV trip on Monday, literally across the country, was a highlight for Richard and me. We were so loaded with provisions and our duffle bags that we were afraid to open the back door. Cases of beer, wine and milk were strapped on top and we could only hope that the heat wouldn't cause any explosions. The countryside was beautiful and lush. Initially the road was great. We went from two-lane hardtop to one-lane gravel and then to clay which at points was slick and wet. One two occasions we came face-to-face with road graders. Hills became steeper requiring 4-wheel drive, and turns, tighter raising our adrenaline and fun. And then we arrived at the river, a surprise to me, and we drove right in heading a bit to the right and then turning left to tackle a steep hill, very slick with red clay. Don't need the movies for this adventure. Oh, and along the way we have passed wrecked and now stripped cars that had taken the tumble down one of the ravines! Arriving at the water's edge, Michael was bobbing in the dinghy just off the concrete docks and we began to offload the many boxes and bags. It took three trips to get everything to Astarte and Barbara had the unenviable task of putting everything away. And then she graciously prepared a delicious dinner and we relaxed in the in the cockpit enjoying a wonderful reunion with our friends.

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