Sunday, August 8, 2010

Everyone in the "Pool"

We unburied the anchor from Portobello and moved back to Kuna Yala (aka San Blas). We spent a considerable amount of time here this past year (October-January) and had guests in this little paradise (Kathryn & Mark, Richard & Rene). WE chose to do an overnight trip from Portobello here so we would arrive at daybreak giving us all day to get through the corals and settled. It was 65 mile run and we left at sundown. We were just ahead of some big storms and pretty much stayed ahead of them for the entire trip - we sort of felt chased by them. It was a good passage, though we motored more than we had hoped. There were lots of ships to watch out for as they headed to and from the canal. We did have a nice little current pushing us.

At sunrise, we were in Kuna Yala and heading for the Holandes. We went to the Eastern Holandes to a favorite spot known as the "swimming pool." This name comes from the crystal clear water and sandy white bottom which makes it feel like you are in a swimming pool. We anchored in about ten feet of clear water. This is "off" season - many of the "commuter cruisers" put their boats in a marina and head back to their home country for several months. We thought the place would be relatively empty - but surprise! Eleven boats were anchored here and facing an odd direction so we had to find a spot for Astarte.

We spent most of Friday resting up from the overnight haul and getting the boat back in order. We said hellos to a few of the "regulars" at the pool and learned about the recent changes in the area. It seems the island (known as potluck island because of the weekly Monday night potluck that is (was) held here, is now "owned" by a different Kuna and he charges people $5 to go on the island. This is an island where yoga was held and Reggie from the boat "Runner" maintained the island by raking it daily and burning the branches and refuse. No more. It seems the Kuna are trying to cash in (even more) on the cruisers. Victor, another Kuna, did canoe by later in the day to collect the $5 Kuna anchoring fee - good for one month here.

So we are back in Kuna Yala - handing over cash to Kunas but we are back in an incredibly beautiful part of the world. We snorkeled yesterday afternoon (after Michael repaired his Hawaiian sling), but had no joy in hunting. He was about to take a shot at a nice snapper until a shark approached. It was pretty large and very active, so Michael opted for sanity (a strange occurrence for Hawk when it comes to fish hunting). We had a nice snorkel and are happy to be settled for a few days in the "pool."

Happy 19th to Christopher and Nathaniel.

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