The celebration of “El Cristo Negro de Nazareno” was nothing short of amazing. The culmination of the seven day event was yesterday and we ventured into town in late afternoon. The town was packed - tens of thousands of people were everywhere. Many were folks who had walked 20, 30, 50 or more miles as part of the pilgrimage – so many were sleeping in bus shelters, the church and makeshift campgrounds along the side of the road. Whole families had made the pilgrimage. Purple was the color of the day with folks attired in fancy purple gowns with lace edges to plain purple t-shirts sporting logos of sports teams or playboy or TV-shows. It was quite a mix and contrast of cultures.
In the church, the purple robes have started to pile up as people discard them on the steps of the church upon completion of their personal pilgrimage along with the promise to the “saint” that they make.
There were many of the “crawlers” finishing up their pilgrimage on their knees. We stood along the last turn towards the church and watched. Some of these folks were obviously doing it for the drama and show. Others, those without entourages, seemed more faith-driven. The pain on some of the faces was quite obvious.
Throughout the town, there were makeshift “hair cutting” stations – with men cutting hair of other men. Don't know the significance of this but it obviously had some meaning. The booths of food, beer, rosaries, candles, and candies were everywhere. The contrast continued to amaze us – Mickey Mouse knickknacks next to religious items. Beer and scantily clad folks, next to purple gowned, candle-bearing pilgrims. There were many homemade shrines – glass boxes mounted on wooden platforms with the Black Christ statue inside were being carried around or set-up in areas.
Like most huge events, the camera crews, reporters and news trucks were everywhere. In fact, we were approached by one crew t ask us questions (I guess the token gringos at the event). But our Spanish wasn't good enough for broadcast!
As evening wore on – the crowds got thicker. Fire works were set off and people lined the streets. We parked ourselves on a wall along a street (later found out it was the makeshift jail). We were lucky that this was the first street the statue would come down as it makes its way around the town. A 90-year old man sat down on the wall next to us and told us stories about the festival, Panama and his travels. As we waited more crawling pilgrims, people carrying incense and candles, folks with large shrines and statues of the Black Christ and huge crosses started the procession..
Then this remarkable sight could be seen. Over the heads of these folks, in the distance, their was this floating, candle-lit vision that was swaying to music. This was the platform with the statue from the church, surrounded with many candles being carried through the street. The swaying was the result of the two steps forward, one step back, rhythm of the bearers. As our 90 year old friend told us, it was more impressive to see it at a distance than up close and hew was certainly correct. The photos don't capture the sounds and movement which was quite magical.
As the statue approached the crowds got thicker. The statue was surrounded by the National Police arm to arm holding their batons to keep the crowds from pushing too close. The statue bearers did not all have their heads shaved nor were they in robes – but they were working hard – shoulder to shoulder, tightly huddled under the statue platform.
After the statue passed our vantage point, a band of musicians followed. They were playing the same tune to help keep the cadence of the marchers – this slow swaying movement. The band had drums, horns, flutes, saxes and was a motley crew of men and women of all ages. It seemed everyone who had seen the statue pass, then got in behind it to march in the procession. All swaying and many carrying candles, statues or incense – a mass of humanity. The crowd went on further than the eye could see.
We were happy that we went in to experience the event. One of the joys of this cruising life is seeing life and events on these various islands and countries. We've attended many local events and fiestas and you get a good sense of the people. Plus, we enjoy street food and have luckily not had any ill-effects so far from our participation in this cuisine.
This was a fiesta with memorable images for us. One we were glad we attended.
In the church, the purple robes have started to pile up as people discard them on the steps of the church upon completion of their personal pilgrimage along with the promise to the “saint” that they make.
There were many of the “crawlers” finishing up their pilgrimage on their knees. We stood along the last turn towards the church and watched. Some of these folks were obviously doing it for the drama and show. Others, those without entourages, seemed more faith-driven. The pain on some of the faces was quite obvious.
Throughout the town, there were makeshift “hair cutting” stations – with men cutting hair of other men. Don't know the significance of this but it obviously had some meaning. The booths of food, beer, rosaries, candles, and candies were everywhere. The contrast continued to amaze us – Mickey Mouse knickknacks next to religious items. Beer and scantily clad folks, next to purple gowned, candle-bearing pilgrims. There were many homemade shrines – glass boxes mounted on wooden platforms with the Black Christ statue inside were being carried around or set-up in areas.
Like most huge events, the camera crews, reporters and news trucks were everywhere. In fact, we were approached by one crew t ask us questions (I guess the token gringos at the event). But our Spanish wasn't good enough for broadcast!
As evening wore on – the crowds got thicker. Fire works were set off and people lined the streets. We parked ourselves on a wall along a street (later found out it was the makeshift jail). We were lucky that this was the first street the statue would come down as it makes its way around the town. A 90-year old man sat down on the wall next to us and told us stories about the festival, Panama and his travels. As we waited more crawling pilgrims, people carrying incense and candles, folks with large shrines and statues of the Black Christ and huge crosses started the procession..
Then this remarkable sight could be seen. Over the heads of these folks, in the distance, their was this floating, candle-lit vision that was swaying to music. This was the platform with the statue from the church, surrounded with many candles being carried through the street. The swaying was the result of the two steps forward, one step back, rhythm of the bearers. As our 90 year old friend told us, it was more impressive to see it at a distance than up close and hew was certainly correct. The photos don't capture the sounds and movement which was quite magical.
As the statue approached the crowds got thicker. The statue was surrounded by the National Police arm to arm holding their batons to keep the crowds from pushing too close. The statue bearers did not all have their heads shaved nor were they in robes – but they were working hard – shoulder to shoulder, tightly huddled under the statue platform.
After the statue passed our vantage point, a band of musicians followed. They were playing the same tune to help keep the cadence of the marchers – this slow swaying movement. The band had drums, horns, flutes, saxes and was a motley crew of men and women of all ages. It seemed everyone who had seen the statue pass, then got in behind it to march in the procession. All swaying and many carrying candles, statues or incense – a mass of humanity. The crowd went on further than the eye could see.
We were happy that we went in to experience the event. One of the joys of this cruising life is seeing life and events on these various islands and countries. We've attended many local events and fiestas and you get a good sense of the people. Plus, we enjoy street food and have luckily not had any ill-effects so far from our participation in this cuisine.
This was a fiesta with memorable images for us. One we were glad we attended.
More pictures on Photo 2 page!
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