Today, October 21st, is the festival of El Cristo Negro de Nazarene – The Black Christ. It is part religious festival and part carnival.
For those inquiring minds, here's the story of "El Cristo Negro."
There are several stories about how the statue came to Portobello, Panama. All the stories do agree that the year was 1658. The statue, which is made of a dark wood thus the "Black Christ" moniker, was carved in Spain. The most popular story is that and was being shipped to the Caribbean and the boat it was aboard was caught in a storm as it approached Portobello. The boat tried to leave the port five times and each time it was sent back into the harbor. The sailors, fearing for their lives, threw the heavy statue overboard and it drifted to shore. (or some say some local fishermen who were distraught by the disrespect of throwing the statue overboard rescued it). Another story says that the statue was destined for Tobago but was mislabeled and sent to Portobello. Another is similar to the first where until the boat that was carrying the statue threw it overboard it couldn't leave the harbor – it threw it over then recollected it and had to throw it over several times so it could depart. Whatever the truth of its beginnings, the statue holds a power over many Panamanians.
Miracles have been attached to the statue. Upon its arrival in Portobello, there was an epidemic of cholera. When the statue was placed in the Church of San Felipe, the epidemic ended. The festival started last Friday and reaches its peak today – the actual fiesta day. Many people walk 53 miles from Panama City, or 22 miles from Colon (Sabanitas) to the church. Some wear ornate purple robes similar to those on the statue. Many crawl the last mile to the church on their hands and knees (or butts). The reasons for such a pilgrimage are many. Some do it as penance for wrong-doing; others are looking for help or a miracle; and some do it simply as a show of faith.
There are stories of miracles amongst those who make the pilgrimage. One woman asked "The Saint" as the statue is familiarly called, to cure her mothers of cancer. The mother's cancer was cured and since then the woman makes the pilgrimage every year. Another salsa singer credits "The Saint" for saving his career from drug addiction and continues to make the pilgrimage annually and has written a song to El Cristo Negro called "El Nazareno."
The stories abound also that a promise made must be kept. "El Cristo Negro cobra" - the Black Christ collects his dues. The story of the man who asks to win the lottery ($2000) and promises to paint the outside of the church in return. He indeed wins but fails to hold up his end of the deal. He in fact, brags to friends that he never intended to do the painting. The next year, he returns with the same request and same promise. On his way home form the festival, with the purchased lottery ticket in his pocket, he is killed in a traffic accident. The winning ticket was found in his pocket.
The Black Christ name is credited to a US Serviceman who during WWII came to the festival on leave and was so taken with the statue yelled "Viva El Cristo Negro" and the name stuck.
Many of the pilgrims wear the purple robes on their pilgrimage. At the end of the celebration at midnight, those purple robes are left on the steps of the church. Tonight, after a mass at 6 pm, the statue is lifted on a platform and at 8 pm leaves the church on the shoulders of 80 men. These men are honored to be selected and in a procession around the town, they carry the statue for hours. The step is a three steps forward, two steps back march. This is either similar to the way processions in Spain happen or as we were told, it replicates the statues washing up on shore in the tidal movement – forward and back. The statue is returned to the church at exactly midnight. It is said that it cannot be returned earlier as it gets too heavy to bring in if its before midnight.
Along with the religious meaning of the fiesta – there is also a carnival atmosphere – which makes for quite a contrast. Booth after booth is set up on every square foot of space in the town selling food, beer (60 cents), ice cream, and candies. Plus there are kiosks selling candles, rosaries, Black Christ statues, pictures, medals etc. Some sell sandals, hammocks, Jesus T-shirts and clothing. Shaved ice sellers have little carts with giant blocks of ice that they carve into cups. You can get your toe nails painted purple for the celebration. Loud music is blaring from speakers playing reggeaton, rock, salsa very loudly. And more quietly from the church, you can hear litanies and hymns being sung.
Religion meets partying...it is quite a sight. We've enjoyed some delicious street food the last several days as we've roamed around the town. Today is supposed to be the big day with 30,000 people expected in this tiny town. Some say, El Christo Negro is the patron saint of pickpockets, so we'll be careful not to bring in anything but some food and beer money and our camera.
Check out PHOTOS 2 – some pictures of the pilgrims and street vendors have been put on the site www.sailastarte.com.
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