Bula. Hello and greetings from Savusavu, Fiji. After 1171 nautical miles, we have safely docked into the Copra Shed Marina on Wednesday, June 22. It took nine days almost to the hour to make the passage.
Let's start with the good news. It was fast. We made some record breaking (for Astarte) sailing days. We passage plan for 110 mile days and we exceeded that every single day hitting a high day (actually two) of 138. We sailed all of it except 14 hours (and that was mostly into and out of the marinas), Guess that made up for all the fuel we used on the first attempt to leave New Zealand and having to motor almost the entire way back. The new roller furler got a good workout and it worked great. Nobody got hurt. We are still married and talking to each other. Astarte sailed magnificently. Carl (the engine) when called upon for his short duty, did it well and the star was "Nigel" the autopilot who never gave up even for a tea break. There were moments of truly great sailing when the seas flattened out just a bit and the winds stayed a consistent speed. Astarte would just find her groove and sail fast and comfortably. Michael's newly designed and built rain/wave curtain was a game changer. It made the passage much more comfortable not getting hit with those rogue waves or the sudden rain shower. Plus it kept the wind noise and cool air from the cockpit making the ride more comfortable. The weather was cold to start but with every degree of latitude towards the equator – the breezes got warmer, the water temp got warmer and we started to shed layers of clothing and get more comfortable as well.
The bad news – (and if you don't want to hear us whine stop reading here). The bad news was that it was a very boisterous and rambunctious voyage. Between very inconsistent wind speeds and really large swells from various directions...it was to say the least, an uncomfortable voyage. In the cockpit, it was bearable, but trying to sleep or move about the cabin was near impossible. Getting tossed out of bed was as normal as staying in it. Making a meal or cup of tea was tricky – so we just didn't eat much (good for the Astarte weight loss program). The winds would go from 12 knots to 28 knots in a blink – no indication it was about to happen – it would just happen. Then it would drop down to next to nothing in the same manner – sailing along gloriously and then flogging sails. We reefed and unfurled sails constantly. We'd try various combinations to find the best way to settle the boat's erratic movements, But we kept knocking off the miles...sometimes not gracefuly.
No fish were caught – other than a few flying fish that landed on the deck. But that was probably because a line never hit the water the entire trip. It was simply too rough to even think about landing or cleaning a fish. Not much sea life was even seen. A fair amount of sea birds – a few types of petrels, albatross and sulas (ganetts).
Now we are back in the charming town of Savusavu. We got in around 12:15 and were cleared in with health, biosecurity and customs by 3:30. They were charming and helpful and very friendly. So we parted with some Fiji dollars and got some much needed showers. Tonight, pizza and beer out and early to bed...don't know if we can sleep with the boat so still.
Another passage completed. Thanks to all who sent us good vibes, messages and wishes. And special thanks to the boats on the adhoc "boomerang" net GypseaHeart, Cavallo, Whistler and Peregrine. Also a giant thanks to the "David and Patricia daily weather program" - from before we made the call to depart (twice) to the finish, they provided us with excellent advice and the YIT site to keep track of our whereabouts. And a final thanks to the "hams" on the Tony's Maritime Net for keeping watch as well.
Now time to enjoy Fiji.
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At 6/21/2016 7:01 PM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 17°03.11'S 179°28.75'E
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Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Sunday, June 12, 2016
OFF FROM NEW ZEALAND – TAKE TWO
It is Monday, June 13 in New Zealand. We have checked out of the country (again) and will now be departing from Opua in the Bay of Islands in about an hour. We will be heading towards Fiji (along with lots of other boats that have selected this as a good weather window). We will have solid winds for most of the trip (or so it seems with today's forecast) and they will have a southerly component so they will be behind us. That's good as they will be in the 20-25 knot range. It should take us 10 to 11 days to make the passage.
We have a new roller furler on and less money in the account – but they did a good job getting it on quickly. So hopefully everything else will hold together. We had a good rig check by the rigger as well and everything looked good from his analysis.
Remember – you can watch our progress on www.YIT.co.nz If all the communication works correctly – we will post a daily position report with them.
If seas are calm and a log entry can be made – we'll do that as well – but don't count on that. We're off – keep hoping for good weather for us.
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At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
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We have a new roller furler on and less money in the account – but they did a good job getting it on quickly. So hopefully everything else will hold together. We had a good rig check by the rigger as well and everything looked good from his analysis.
Remember – you can watch our progress on www.YIT.co.nz If all the communication works correctly – we will post a daily position report with them.
If seas are calm and a log entry can be made – we'll do that as well – but don't count on that. We're off – keep hoping for good weather for us.
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At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
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Monday, June 6, 2016
OFFSHORE THRILLS
While we were offshore for those few exciting days - we did get to see some cool things. Early on as we were just departing, we had a lovely pod of dolphins with us for several hours, playing in the waves and wakes. They weren't terribly acrobatic but they were immensely loyal staying nearby and checking us out.
Then there were the rainbows...everywhere. Because of the squalls, the air was moist enough, but we also had a fair amount of sun creating lots and lots of rainbows. A few were picture perfect. They were the perfect rainbow shape and we saw the entire bow touching the water on both ends. Some were intensely bright and others faded into the clouds. But it seemed for awhile wherever we glanced, a rainbow greeted us.
Whales were spouting in the distance at one point as well. They were a bit off, but we could see there spouts despite the rough water. No identification could be made – but we knew they were out there.
The big sight though was on the Thursday. This was the day we were facing very large seas and big wind. We were both out in the cockpit and it was still light out. Out of one of the large five meter waves, came this massive creature flying through the air. It was less than 100 meters from the boat and it was going in the same direction as Astarte. It was a giant male Orca whale with a huge fin and beautiful and distinct markings on its very large body. After it landed, it leapt through the next wave repeating its magnificent performance. Then we looked at each other and thought, eeek...that was close! But wow was that something to see. Then we watched as three orcas (one quite small one) turned around and surfed off the waves. They looked like they (unlike us) were having a blast in the big seas and wind. They were orca "surfer dudes!"
IF we had a camera, this video would have been watched by millions! It was the most amazing sight we had seen. But alas, no camera in hand. It was incredible that this hulk of a creature could get so airborne so gracefully and not just once, but two times.
Not sure if we can say that the sights of our short "boomerang" trip were worth the anxiety and cost...but at least it was some payment!
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At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Then there were the rainbows...everywhere. Because of the squalls, the air was moist enough, but we also had a fair amount of sun creating lots and lots of rainbows. A few were picture perfect. They were the perfect rainbow shape and we saw the entire bow touching the water on both ends. Some were intensely bright and others faded into the clouds. But it seemed for awhile wherever we glanced, a rainbow greeted us.
Whales were spouting in the distance at one point as well. They were a bit off, but we could see there spouts despite the rough water. No identification could be made – but we knew they were out there.
The big sight though was on the Thursday. This was the day we were facing very large seas and big wind. We were both out in the cockpit and it was still light out. Out of one of the large five meter waves, came this massive creature flying through the air. It was less than 100 meters from the boat and it was going in the same direction as Astarte. It was a giant male Orca whale with a huge fin and beautiful and distinct markings on its very large body. After it landed, it leapt through the next wave repeating its magnificent performance. Then we looked at each other and thought, eeek...that was close! But wow was that something to see. Then we watched as three orcas (one quite small one) turned around and surfed off the waves. They looked like they (unlike us) were having a blast in the big seas and wind. They were orca "surfer dudes!"
IF we had a camera, this video would have been watched by millions! It was the most amazing sight we had seen. But alas, no camera in hand. It was incredible that this hulk of a creature could get so airborne so gracefully and not just once, but two times.
Not sure if we can say that the sights of our short "boomerang" trip were worth the anxiety and cost...but at least it was some payment!
-----
At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
----------
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Sunday, June 5, 2016
BACK IN NEW ZEALAND
In our seven plus years of cruising, we never have had to turn back after leaving a country. We research and ponder and stress over finding the right weather window to leave and then head on to the next destination. We would have already gone through our offshore checklist and stowed everything away.
On Tuesday, as the last log entry indicated, we headed out of Marsden Cove in Whangarei, New Zealand with SavuSavu, Fiji as our destination. The wind was brisk as we headed out of Hatea River. We were able to shut the motor off soon and under headsail we were underway. We were going to head north for awhile to avoid a low that was coming behind us and try to get as far north as possible to avoid it. Then we would start our way more northeast. We had a good sail through the night though it was a bit lumpy with a swell. We still had some protection in the southwesterly wind from New Zealand. A few squalls came and went and it was COLD! Michael's newly built side-curtain was put up and that made a world of difference keeping the splashing waves out of the cockpit and the breeze off us. It also made it much quieter without the howl of the breeze.
Because of the squalls and changing wind conditions, we were doing a fair amount of sail changing. Putting the head sail in more when the wind picked up to 20 and easing it out as it passed. We made 110 miles on day one and then started to turn towards the east as the low changed and now the goal was to get more easting in as soon the wind would pick up steadily out of the southeast. At one point, we had to turn the engine on as the wind died so we had to motor sail with main and motor. As the wind picked up again, we killed the engine and pulled out the head sail. When we tried to put it in when the wind died again, it wouldn't go in. There was a jam on the roller furling line around the drum. So, we pulled it all out and had to drop the sail on the deck and un-jam the line. That was sorted out and the sail was raised again – all this in a lumpy sea. Luckily it was daylight and the wind was benign at this point. So we had the sail back up and then rolled it in and we were motoring again. The wind picked up so we pulled out the sail but it didn't come out very easily. We were happy to be sailing again and saving fuel. We don't carry enough fuel to motor forever – so whenever we had enough breeze to at least move the boat 3.5 knots we would sail. But because the sail didn't come out smoothly, Michael went forward to take a closer look at the furler again.
It wasn't a happy trip forward. Besides getting a soaking from the waves crashing aboard, he came back with two bearings in his hand that he found rolling on the deck. The furler drum started to work its way up the stay. It was broken. Not repairable underway.
Decision time. We had about 200 miles behind us. Weather ahead was "boisterous" with 20-25 southeasterlies. Seas were building. We had at this point enough fuel to make it back to NZ. Not enough to make it to Fiji. Repairs we thought would be easier in NZ...and perhaps a bit less expensive. We turned around and headed south.
We checked in with several of the radio nets to let folks know and we started to head right into the winds and seas. We rigged our storm sail with a spare wire halyard to the deck(why we have the wire halyard in the first place) and hanked it on. After several tries to get the sheets led correctly, we were sailing south with a small main and storm jib. We couldn't keep the course line and were about 60 degrees off, but making slow progress. As the winds picked up over Thursday night, we dropped the storm jib and motor-sailed into 25-30 knots and 4 meter seas. Then it got even bigger...30-35 with gusts to 40 in 5 meter seas. Waves were coming into the cockpit regularly so we decided to heave to – in a modified way without a head sail. Michael did a great job. The boat settled...no more crashing waves and we slowly (2 knots) rode out the night. We actually even made 5 miles to the good by the time the night was over. Friday morning came and the winds settled to 20 knots and that felt calm! As the day progressed and we made our way towards Opua, the seas and winds continued to moderate allowing to gain speed. We had to add some fuel to the tank – another bit of a challenge in rolling seas – but that went smoothly.
At 1400, we were tied up to the Q dock in Opua. Then moved to a slip at the marina. We were tired and chilly. A nice hot meal, a bottle of wine and a good night's sleep was in order.
We weren't the only boat forced to turn back. Our friends on GypseaHeart noticed a big tear in their mainsail as they were heading out. Folks on another catamaran "Whistler" are on their way back in with reefing issues and a leaking escape hatch. So we are all again, waiting for repairs ...then weather.
We woke up today (Sunday) to a sunny day and lots of tidying, cleaning, washing off the decks, taking apart the roller-furler bottom drum and generally getting organized. Washing all the wet and salty clothes was a high priority.
Now we wait until Tuesday (Monday is a holiday in NZ) to see when the roller furler will arrive and get installed.
Next entry: Some exciting things we saw on the short adventure!
Sunday, June 5, 2016
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At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
On Tuesday, as the last log entry indicated, we headed out of Marsden Cove in Whangarei, New Zealand with SavuSavu, Fiji as our destination. The wind was brisk as we headed out of Hatea River. We were able to shut the motor off soon and under headsail we were underway. We were going to head north for awhile to avoid a low that was coming behind us and try to get as far north as possible to avoid it. Then we would start our way more northeast. We had a good sail through the night though it was a bit lumpy with a swell. We still had some protection in the southwesterly wind from New Zealand. A few squalls came and went and it was COLD! Michael's newly built side-curtain was put up and that made a world of difference keeping the splashing waves out of the cockpit and the breeze off us. It also made it much quieter without the howl of the breeze.
Because of the squalls and changing wind conditions, we were doing a fair amount of sail changing. Putting the head sail in more when the wind picked up to 20 and easing it out as it passed. We made 110 miles on day one and then started to turn towards the east as the low changed and now the goal was to get more easting in as soon the wind would pick up steadily out of the southeast. At one point, we had to turn the engine on as the wind died so we had to motor sail with main and motor. As the wind picked up again, we killed the engine and pulled out the head sail. When we tried to put it in when the wind died again, it wouldn't go in. There was a jam on the roller furling line around the drum. So, we pulled it all out and had to drop the sail on the deck and un-jam the line. That was sorted out and the sail was raised again – all this in a lumpy sea. Luckily it was daylight and the wind was benign at this point. So we had the sail back up and then rolled it in and we were motoring again. The wind picked up so we pulled out the sail but it didn't come out very easily. We were happy to be sailing again and saving fuel. We don't carry enough fuel to motor forever – so whenever we had enough breeze to at least move the boat 3.5 knots we would sail. But because the sail didn't come out smoothly, Michael went forward to take a closer look at the furler again.
It wasn't a happy trip forward. Besides getting a soaking from the waves crashing aboard, he came back with two bearings in his hand that he found rolling on the deck. The furler drum started to work its way up the stay. It was broken. Not repairable underway.
Decision time. We had about 200 miles behind us. Weather ahead was "boisterous" with 20-25 southeasterlies. Seas were building. We had at this point enough fuel to make it back to NZ. Not enough to make it to Fiji. Repairs we thought would be easier in NZ...and perhaps a bit less expensive. We turned around and headed south.
We checked in with several of the radio nets to let folks know and we started to head right into the winds and seas. We rigged our storm sail with a spare wire halyard to the deck(why we have the wire halyard in the first place) and hanked it on. After several tries to get the sheets led correctly, we were sailing south with a small main and storm jib. We couldn't keep the course line and were about 60 degrees off, but making slow progress. As the winds picked up over Thursday night, we dropped the storm jib and motor-sailed into 25-30 knots and 4 meter seas. Then it got even bigger...30-35 with gusts to 40 in 5 meter seas. Waves were coming into the cockpit regularly so we decided to heave to – in a modified way without a head sail. Michael did a great job. The boat settled...no more crashing waves and we slowly (2 knots) rode out the night. We actually even made 5 miles to the good by the time the night was over. Friday morning came and the winds settled to 20 knots and that felt calm! As the day progressed and we made our way towards Opua, the seas and winds continued to moderate allowing to gain speed. We had to add some fuel to the tank – another bit of a challenge in rolling seas – but that went smoothly.
At 1400, we were tied up to the Q dock in Opua. Then moved to a slip at the marina. We were tired and chilly. A nice hot meal, a bottle of wine and a good night's sleep was in order.
We weren't the only boat forced to turn back. Our friends on GypseaHeart noticed a big tear in their mainsail as they were heading out. Folks on another catamaran "Whistler" are on their way back in with reefing issues and a leaking escape hatch. So we are all again, waiting for repairs ...then weather.
We woke up today (Sunday) to a sunny day and lots of tidying, cleaning, washing off the decks, taking apart the roller-furler bottom drum and generally getting organized. Washing all the wet and salty clothes was a high priority.
Now we wait until Tuesday (Monday is a holiday in NZ) to see when the roller furler will arrive and get installed.
Next entry: Some exciting things we saw on the short adventure!
Sunday, June 5, 2016
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At 6/4/2016 4:44 AM (utc) S/V Astarte was located at 35°18.88'S 174°07.30'E
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
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