Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Island Hopping

After the "mayhem" in Mayreau - the dinghy came back "home" with no damage. She now gets lassoed to the deck at night - no more midnight sails for her. In Mayreau we went ashore and did a hike (of course up hills). We stopped by a bar for a beer to cool off on the way back. There are many interesting spots on this tiny island - but few were open. It was midday on a Saturday and out of season. Sorry Jamie- "Righteous" is still on the island - but there was a rasta guy asleep on the bar - so we presumed it was closed! We later had the folks who rescued our dinghy (from "Goin South") over for sundowners. Saturday night got quite uncomfortable in Saline Bay - with a beam roll that made sleeping quite untenable. On Sunday, we got an earlier than normal start and headed to a new island - Union Island. We decided to try a "new-to-us" spot "Chatham Bay" that was described as "a great anchorage though you'll have winds shrieking from the surrounding hills. It has a beautiful beach and some great snorkeling." All of it was true.

We had a good sail to Union Island through a few squalls to the new anchorage where there were only two other boats. After two tries anchoring (and Michael diving the anchor to check it), we decided to head snorkeling around the point. This was one of the most amazing snorkeling sites we've had so far. There were so many fish it was simply breathtaking. There were schools and schools of fish in the hundreds, lots of colorful tropicals, some very active and different species of eels and even a rare "robinfish" which was something to see as it slowly "flew" across the sand - wings spread. We had to look it up when we got back to the boat (in the gifted books from Gene and Pat). Other than lots of stinging "sea lice/sea ants/jelly fish larvae" - (everyone has a different reason for the stings) it was a wonderful snorkel adventure. We saw eels actually grabbing fish as they swam by and saw the schools go crazy when birds would dive into the water after them. It was a real treat.

Along the beach in Chatham are lots of tiny local shacks that serve as bars/restaurants/gathering spots for tourists and locals. That afternoon, we dinghied to shore to a "bar" and met the famous "Shark Attack" (that's his name!). He was the first guy who started beach barbeques in the bay - before roads went there. He would have to bring everything by boat. It was successful and soon he had lots of competition. He's quite a character. He's also a self-described "artist" and insisted on showing us his wood carvings.

We had a local brew, walked the lovely beach and called it a night. We had bought a fresh snapper from a local fisherman (Michael negotiated a great price) - and enjoyed that for dinner. (Barbara created a new recipe "Snapper Inferno" (because it was so hot in the galley). It had a fresh mango/lime sauce. Yummy.

We decided to stay a second day at the same location to get another snorkel in at the same site. It was equally as terrific with lots of eels, fish, giant puffer/porcupine fish and lots of coral varieties. Michael scared up some big fish - but spearing is not allowed. Bummer. Unfortunately the stingers were still there as well. After returning to Astarte, we showered and went to Clifton - the main town and anchored off the town. Michael quickly went in to get to customs before closing - so we were properly cleared out for a Tuesday morning departure. We then both went in for a walk around the town which is nice.especially the ice cream stand. Michael had a cherry coconut and Barbara a fudge ripple - ice cream's always a treat. Plus the cones were each just $1.10 (US) - that's a deal.

The anchorage is around two reefs - you anchor behind one and in front of the other - so there is not much room and it's quite crowded with large day charter boats. With little swinging room - it's not something we particularly like - but it was predicted to be calm. But the weather weasels were wrong - huge, unpredicted, unexpected squalls came through starting about 2100 and went all night long. Lots of wind, rain and lightning made for a night of anchor watches as boats swung precariously close. One boat ahead of us ended up dragging and having to drop a second anchor. Not a fun night. At about 0730 we picked up our anchor and left to head to a new country - Grenada.

We headed the few miles away to check in at Hillsborough on the island of Carriacou - which is part of the country of Grenada. We had to both go in to clear in - as they have a new "swine flu" check - where they need to "see" all crew to make sure they look healthy and answer some health questions. After going to three places - immigration, customs then the port authority and dropping off the reams of paper they have you fill out - we were legal with two months allowed in Grenada. . . We always wonder what they do with all that paper - carbon paper is still a big commodity in the islands - everything is in triplicate with carbon.

We left Hillsborough and anchored off Sandy Island to do a quick snorkel before heading to Tyrell Bay. This is just what its name implies - a sandy island with a few palm trees. Not a nighttime anchorage - but good for a day stop and some swimming and snorkeling. This was a day where we'd anchor three times in three different locations. It's a good workout for Michael who dives each anchor to check to make sure it's set and for Barbara who does the foredeck work getting the anchor up and down.

The snorkel off the island was good - we saw two huge nurse sharks as well as some nice tropicals. Unfortunately, weather started to come in - so we had to make a quick getaway back to Astarte before it hit. After the squalls passed - we lifted anchor again (#3 for the day)- and made our way around the corner to Tyrell Bay where we are anchored. This is a place we've been to in 2001 and we enjoyed it. We were both pretty tired from the anchor watch night before as well as the three different anchorages today, clearing into the country, and the snorkel.

Called it an early night - it was a rainy night.

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