On Tuesday, we pulled anchor in Rodney Bay and had a magnificent sail down to the southern end of St. Lucia to Soufriere. We took a mooring right next to one of the two famous Pitons, Petite Piton.
The Pitons!
Petite Piton.
The beach at "magic hour".
You could smell the sulfur from the volcano/hot springs. We wanted to moor near what is called the bat caves – but there were no other boats there – and the park suggests for safety reasons you not moor there alone. We also found out it isn’t the mass exodus of bats we envisioned. So we went to the other side and called the base of the Pitons home for the night. Did a quick snorkel and saw a “garden” of garden eels growing from the bottom. These “heteroconger halis” stick their head and bodies out of the sand – like plants and sway to catch plankton. They are in large colonies – so it looked like tall grass. They are fun to watch.
In Soufriere, there is an abundance of “local business people” (aka boat boys) that come out to your boat to sell you things. We got approached early on by someone wanting to tie us to the mooring (we passed – Barbara wanted to keep up her record of 100% catches on the first try.). Then came the jewelry men – very pretty stuff made from wood, shells, coral (dead), etc. Then came the fruit Rastafarian – from whom we bought some tomatoes and limes. Then came the swimming Rasta – selling calabash bowls. Calabash is a gourd like fruit that grows on short trees – but when hollowed and dried can be used as pretty sturdy, watertight bowls. We did buy one from Gervis Pascal (the swimming rasta) – now we’re seeing how it’ll dry and store on a rocking boat! But it is quite pretty – with mahi carved into it.
In Soufriere, there is an abundance of “local business people” (aka boat boys) that come out to your boat to sell you things. We got approached early on by someone wanting to tie us to the mooring (we passed – Barbara wanted to keep up her record of 100% catches on the first try.). Then came the jewelry men – very pretty stuff made from wood, shells, coral (dead), etc. Then came the fruit Rastafarian – from whom we bought some tomatoes and limes. Then came the swimming Rasta – selling calabash bowls. Calabash is a gourd like fruit that grows on short trees – but when hollowed and dried can be used as pretty sturdy, watertight bowls. We did buy one from Gervis Pascal (the swimming rasta) – now we’re seeing how it’ll dry and store on a rocking boat! But it is quite pretty – with mahi carved into it.
Calabash bowl.
Perhaps it will end the curse of no fish for some time! Gervis told us it was good luck. It’s interesting to chat with these guys – but they are persistent and it gets old after awhile.
After a night in this absolutely beautiful spot (the Pitons are on the $50 EC bill) – we left at 0545 to make the run to Bequia. We sailed most of the way – having to motor sail just a bit when we were in the lee of St. Vincent. Between islands it is quite a romp – as the winds really shoot between the islands and the waves and currents add to the wild ride. Astarte does love to sail though. Even with reefed sails she hits 7.5 and sometimes higher! Autopilot Nigel is a good mate – steering a steady course. We still need to give Otis (the wayward wind vane) another try.
We came in and anchored near town in very clear water at about 1630. We flew the yellow flag and cleared in this morning (Thursday) with customs and immigration. We walked around the town which is really lovely with a sidewalk right along the waterfront.
After a night in this absolutely beautiful spot (the Pitons are on the $50 EC bill) – we left at 0545 to make the run to Bequia. We sailed most of the way – having to motor sail just a bit when we were in the lee of St. Vincent. Between islands it is quite a romp – as the winds really shoot between the islands and the waves and currents add to the wild ride. Astarte does love to sail though. Even with reefed sails she hits 7.5 and sometimes higher! Autopilot Nigel is a good mate – steering a steady course. We still need to give Otis (the wayward wind vane) another try.
We came in and anchored near town in very clear water at about 1630. We flew the yellow flag and cleared in this morning (Thursday) with customs and immigration. We walked around the town which is really lovely with a sidewalk right along the waterfront.
The walkway.
Lorna, something to do with the driftwood you take home!
Where's Astarte?
Local Boats.
For Nina
Tonight we’re actually having “cook’s night off” and will head in for dinner in one of the many restaurants on shore. (Whaleboner and Devil’s Table both sound interesting!) We were disappointed to find that the normal Thursday night “jump up” and barbeque at the Frangipani was held on Tuesday this week – so won’t happen tonight. Bummer – we were counting on some fun dancing music (that’s why it’s called “jump up”) and b-b-que. I’m certain we’ll find a replacement.
Working our way towards Grenada and Frank’s visit on the 24th!
Working our way towards Grenada and Frank’s visit on the 24th!
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