Monday, July 20, 2009

After a 23 Hour Sail=?ISO-8859-1?Q?=85?=A Real Reward

Our visit to La Blanquilla was very special. This was a new island for us to explore, and though we only stayed a few days - we did explore on land, dinghy and snorkeling. We spent all day Saturday discovering some of Blanquilla's special qualities. We dinghied around the point from Playa Yaque where we were anchored to a place called "Americano Bay." It is named because an American named Mr. Blackenship, built a house on the island, long before anyone else used the island. It was built on a rocky point and he'd fly his plane here and land near the house. The bay is spectacular with its natural stone caves and an enormous natural rock archway. The house is a mere skeleton now - but we climbed up its beautiful stone path and stood on the natural archway. It was a beautiful view. The beach in the bay is fine white sand and we saw several turtle nesting areas. We could see the turtle tracks as mom heads up the beach to lay her eggs and then back to the sea. We also saw a unique bird in the trees - one we'd see again on the island walk. It has to be part of the eagle/hawk/falcon family. A large bird of prey of some type. (We realized our reference library lacks a good bird book - we'll have to find one).

After our dinghy exploring to Americano Bay we went snorkeling around Astarte. There was an enormous variety and collection of fish to be seen in the rock and coral ledges nearby. Barbara finally saw some cuttle fish (a favorite of hers) and we spotted eels, some new tropicals we hadn't seen, some large edible fish (though no spear fishing allowed - bummer), and schools and schools of various fish. It was a healthy ecosystem.

We ended Saturday's exploring with a walk along the white sandy beach.

On Sunday morning, we decided to head inland on the island. The guide book tells you to wear sturdy shoes because of all the cacti. They should have mentioned long pants to Michael - as he attracted many a prickly pear thorn into his leg - shedding some blood on the island. It was a very flat island and we probably made it to its tallest point (57 feet). There were donkey paths to follow through the long grass, cactus and trees. We did see a donkey who was none to happy to see us. He brayed at us for some time. We also spotted a green parrot and that same species of bird of prey we had also spotted in Americano Bay.

After our walk - it was time to get Astarte ready for the next sail. We loaded the dinghy, put everything away, stored things below decks and made up some sandwiches for the trip.

Blanquilla was special because it wasn't a tourist island at all. Every night, we were anchored amongst local fishing boats. They would come in to catch some sleep, eat and then head off again. One night one boat came in pretty late (and maybe had emptied a rum bottle or two) and got pretty close to the boat when they dropped their anchor. Oh well, by morning they were gone.
At 1340 on Sunday, we started the engine - only it wouldn't start. Michael had to get out the tools and found a small spring had sprung out of a hole on the fuel shut off lever. While in the engine room though, he also discovered another problem - so it was a lucky thing that the spring had broken or he wouldn't have spotted an issue with vibration against the fuel lines. All is good for now - but he'll need to get some replacement parts. (Note from Barbara: Michael's ability to fix things really helps reassure me about this trip and adventure. He thinks things through so well and seems to be able to find a solution or a fix. Yes, sometimes the language isn't so pleasant - but I am lucky!)

Anyway - after the fix, the engine started and we were off at 1430. Destination - Los Roques 120 miles away. Michael had rigged a preventer (ignore if you are a sailor, Matt R. take note, a preventer is a bunch of line and pulleys that keeps the boom from swinging across the deck uncontrolled. It attaches to the side of the boat and as the boat rolls, it keeps the boom in place) for the main sail and we sailed downwind with following seas with the main only. We tried both sails for awhile but the main blanketed the headsail. Winds were relatively light and seas were 3-5 feet so quite pleasant. No joy on the fishing front however which was a real disappointment as these are supposed to be great fishing waters.

We did see a green flash and remarkable sunset followed by a sky filled with bright stars - thanks to no light intrusion. Overnight, the wind died some and we slowed quite a bit - which meant the sea state had its way with the boat. But it wasn't so uncomfortable - we both caught some sleep when we were off watch.

As you approach Los Roques - you don't see the islands - but you do see turquoise clouds. The reflection from the beautiful blue waters onto the clouds turn them this lovely pale blue-green. That's how you can see where the islands are. As we approached the islands after almost 22 hours of sailing you are truly rewarded with a beautiful sight. The water color against the white sands and reefs is frankly - indescribable. There are at least 10 different shades of blues and greens in the water. You have to do eyeball navigation here through the reefs as the charts aren't very good (and in fact our chart plotter has us anchored on land - we're not!) There are supposed to be 80 species of birds that live here or migrate through.

We came in through a quarter mile cut in the Bajo de la Cabecere (Head shaped shoal) reef near the Sebastopol Lighthouse - the Boca de Sabastopol entrance. We then turned to travel between two reefs. The water was quite deep between these large reefs - and very calm - as the reef breaks the incoming waves. We followed the reef to a small mangrove island and anchored in 34 feet of water over sand. It's called Buchiyaco. It's very breezy but flat calm - there are a few other sailboats here - but we are all quite separated so it feels very private.

Tomorrow, we'll explore. Tonight, we'll rest from the all day trip.

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