We left Grenada's Prickly Bay on Monday evening at sunset for the 90 mile run to the west. We flew the full genoa (headsail) and had an easterly wind about 15-18 knots. Seas were about 5 feet from behind - so the following seas made for a bit of a lumpy ride. We slowed down at one point so we wouldn't arrive before good daylight.
As we closed in on the islands (about 0700) we looked back and saw "fish on!" It was a nice blackfin tuna (though when we get pictures up - we'll get a confirmation from our readers who are fisheries experts). It was a nice size, we got it in and Michael filleted it. A special gift for that evening's meal after an all night sail! We also were really treated with a huge school of dolphins playing with Astarte for a long time - they were all sizes and very playful - leaping out of the water, doing back flips, and just swimming in our wake. They were fun to watch. The islands also have a huge collection of sea birds - lots of frigates, boobies, shearwaters, and terns. It was a great end to a good overnight trip - filled with boats crossing, good stars, an almost full moon and one tack!.
We chose to enter through the northern entrance of the islands to check out a few of the anchorages. Arriving into the cut at 0930, we first went to "check in" with the "Guardacosta" station in Isla Iguana. We had to anchor off the station in really rough water and heavy winds - but managed to actually get the dinghy off the deck and Michael to shore to do the clearing in process. It was a wet and lumpy ride to the dock - and a good climb up the hill for him. After a night of little to no sleep - this can often be challenging. This is not an official clearance port for Venezuela - but you are required to check in with the local Coast Guard station. They will "allow" you to stay in the islands for 48 hours. However, a small bottle of rum will often extend your stay! Michael managed to communicate with his limited Spanish and the Guardacosta's limited English. He had prepared papers with crew list, equipment and boat information in Spanish which made the visit much easier. We'll be here a few days - until the next weather window to run up to La Blanquilla.
Several other boats are anchored with us off this picture perfect beach - sandy with palm trees and turquoise water. The beach is "Playa Real" (Royal Beach) and it is between the two Tesigos (Pequena and Grande). There boats from France, Switzerland, St. Vincent's and England here. We are the only US flagged boat.
There are many fishing boats around - anchored off the bays on either side of this beach. There are two varieties of boats - larger boats that are open but covered and look to have crews of about six to nine people. Then there are the open "pangas" that have high narrow bows and are very stable. All are made of wood. The fishermen seem pretty friendly - this is where we wished we were fluent in Spanish. We continue our on-board lessons along with the added value of "immersion."
Today - we'll explore (Michael sees hills that must be conquered!) and perhaps even some snorkeling after hiking.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
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